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Situated less than half an hour from
Biarritz, St.Jean de Luz and Bayonne, the
calm haven of CAMBO-LES-BAINS is one of the first jumping off points for
exploring the Labourd province.
In the 19th century, Cambo became known for the health and well being to be
gained from the two thermal hot water springs found in the Village. Cures and
treatments for many sorts of diseases, respiratory, digestive, skin diseases
were promoted and thermalism became popular.
Visitors to Cambo and the health curists appreciated the restful but tonic
atmosphere of the village and the charms of the Basque countryside and the
Basque culture.
With all that, Cambo is blessed with a mild micro-climate, sheltered from the
damp and wind from the sea. In 1924 Cambo was officially designated a climatic
Health-station.
Cambo hosts also one of the top touristy visits in the Basque country: the
“Villa Arnaga", the famous maison of Edmond Rostand, who wrote “Cyrano de
Bergerac”, and whose villa shows Jugendstil influences.
Not very far from Cambo, here comes a village, AINHOA, classified officially as
one of the most beautiful villages in France and certainly one of the best
examples of Basque village architecture.
Look at Main Street containing several of the finest houses built in Labourd
style with the dates of construction engraved on the lintels as well as the
names of the first occupants. One inscription of the “Gorita” house (1662)
relates how money for the restoration of the home was sent back from the
“Indies” (Americas) by some of the families who had emigrated there. This is a
classic Basque story, of young Basques spending years of hard work in Argentina
or the Western United States in order to make their fortune and either return to
establish themselves or else to maintain, or ensure ownership, of the family
home.
Ainhoa follows the custom of building houses with their backs to the sea. This
explains the curious aspect of how the houses on one side of the street appear
to be more beautiful and richly decorated than the other. These are simply the
main facades whereas on the other side the houses present their backs, and apart
from doorway and windows are less decorated.
Ainhoa was built during the Middle ages in”bastide” style. In other words built
to a regular pattern (and thus easier to defend) and also for a specific
purpose. In the case of Ainhoa, the purpose was to provide a stopover for the
pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella. During the Middle ages
pilgrims from all over Europe flocked to visit Compostella in Spain and nearly
all of the major routes converged in the northern Basque country before crossing
the Pyrenees.
Ainhoa was almost completely destroyed by the Spanish in 1629 and the houses
were rebuilt during the 17th and 18th centuries.
The church of Ainhoa dates in its oldest parts from the 14th century and its
thick walls and narrow-slit windows attest to its double function of place of
worship and also a refuge in time of war. The interior is the classic Labourd
style, a simple nave without columns, rich altar, and of course, two tiers of
wooden galleries. The church dominates the “fronton” or rounded wall against
which is played the Basque “pelota”, an essential part of any Basque village.
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