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Cote d'Azur |
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COTE D'AZUR-What will become of the cote and nature like in Cap Ferrat? |
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Cap Ferrat-Villa Ephrussi de
Rothshild-a
visit inside and |
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After Nice and Villefranche
the Riviera is a paradise for the “happy few”. On Cap Ferrat there are still
servant-entrances, which are not rusted, solid and middle-aged but very well
cared ladies jog around in the flowered lanes. A good reason for that is that it
is protected territory. And this is like that since a long time. Take now the
British author William Somerset Maugham (1874-1965) who bought the “Villa
Mauresque”in 1928 thanks to the colossal sums of money he earned with his
book: “The Moon and Sixpence” and “Cakes and Ale”. This villa, former
possession of king Leopold II, king of Belgium (!), was despised by Maugham (he
had a terrible temper), as “ugly so it had to be cheap”. Nevertheless he
lived there until his death in 1965. Exotic paradise birds as Somerset Maugham
were not the exception. They appeared practically never openly or in public
places. And in our days, this desire for anonymity all along the Riviera is
growing more and more. It’s not only “snobbish” to receive at home, but
also more secure. In Cap Ferrat numerous celebrities, like Jean Paul Belmondo,
Raymond Barre and from the more ancient guests we can remember Nietzsche, Otto
Preminger, and Jean Cocteau have their little “shack”! But don’t try to
approach them too near! Large villas in Cap Ferrat grew into modern versions of
medieval fortifications. Electronic fences and hidden cameras replaced
drawbridges, deep ditches and turrets pierced to throw boiling pitch. On the
“cap” everything is done to avoid that non-invited guests should dive in
other man’s pools, or “borrow” and “put in another safe place” the
Monet’s and Dubuffet’s. And even more, to avoid that the owner would be shot
to death in his own garden. Let’s quote the American journalist in her Riviera
book, Mary Blume: “ It’s not longer fashionable to have a dream villa at the
Cote d’Azur. Better a dream yacht with all the possible communication gadgets
and equipment, navigating in and out with the motto: as long as you move, it is
difficult to hit you.” But finally between Nice and
Monaco, I mean the part of the Cote where the richest and wealthiest live, life
goes on as if nothing changed and everything was as joyful as before. But when I
read the statistics, only for the Alpes-Maritimes, of which Cap Ferrat is a
part, the Cote is already stuffed with speculative concrete, designed only for
mass-tourism. Although concrete didn't make too many ravages on the peninsula of
Cap-Ferrat, covered with a magnificent pine-forest, we must also notice the
ravages of the “green concrete”: the newest French rage to build
golf-courses whose concessions are coupled with even more profitable building of
golf-restaurants and golf-hotels. And last but not least, the scourge of the
“marina’s” is overwhelming everything around, which means the coastline
being stuffed with yacht harbours with their concrete dikes, fancy club houses
and the unnecessary hubbub. The backcountry pays every year a heavy price to
this new mass culture with the immense forest fires, turning thousands of
hectares into ashes.
And it may seem paradoxical, but in this area, where the most expensive villas of the Cote embellish the scenery, there exist several agreeable hotels at accessible prices! |