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Loire valley-Villandry, last Renaissance chateau and gardens

 

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One of the last Renaissance chateaux built on the Loire 1536) and overhanging the large valley where Cher and Loire join. The builder was Jean Le Breton, doing it in a sort of transition phase because the nobility and the French kings had moved from Touraine to Ile de France (1526). Interesting story, the one of this chateau. Michel-Ange de Castellane, who bought the chateau in 1754, tried to remove all 16th century aspects from the chateau. He ordered to chisel the facades until they looked classic again. In his desire to follow the trend at his time he effectuated a few other changments: he added fake windows between the real ones already existing in the facades. The old 12th century dungeon was covered by an octagonal pavilion!! Imagine the overcharged impression that this extravagant ensemble must have given! Curious taste I must say.  Probably he would have been flabbergasted when he would have seen how much trouble Joachim de Carvalho, the Spaniard, grandfather of the actual owner, who bought the castle in 1906, went trough to make that 16th century live again in the castle’s aspect. Not only did he restore Villandry completely, but he designed the world famous gardens in its unique style. The architects had no clue how it looked like in the 16th century so they were helped by etchings and sketches from other 16th century gardens.
The opening hours of the CHATEAU are rather complicated. Let's see.
Open in April, June and September to end October from 9.00 AM to 6.00 PM. Closing time 5.30 PM from end October to November 11.
Open from 9.30 AM to 5.00 PM from begin February to end of March. You can buy a combined ticket for chateau and gardens.
Joachim de Carvalho didn’t deny his origins inside the chateau. You will find Spanish furnishing, chests wit Moorish motives, a 13th century ceiling in Mudejar style (for me the highlight of the visit. Originating from a mosque build in Spain in the 13th century, it was purchased by Joachim de Carvalho during a sale in Toledo. At that time it was a sort of puzzle of more than 3000 pieces!! They had to put it together again, in cedar wood decorated by gold leaves) and an important collection of paintings (16th, 17th and 18th centuries) scattered in several galleries open to the public. From the Goya School, the Zurbaran school but also works from German schools (16th) and Flemish (17th).
The GARDENS open from 8.30 AM to 8.00 PM in July and August. May, June and the 3 first weeks of September form 9.0O AM to 7.30 PM. The other months shorter hours. They are built on three different levels. A remarkable example of landscape art of the French Renaissance, a combination of geometrical concepts of Italian gardeners called by Charles VIII and the tradition of French monastic style.  The “Jardin d’Eau” on the highest level is made by an enormous waterpond used for irrigation of the gardens and the supply for different fountains. The ornamental garden, at the intermediate level, located in front of the chateau, is formed by high box-trees and divided in four squares, each one representing allegories of love and music. Made out of buxus, taxus and the most diverse flowers.  Notice that the flowerbeds flourish red in the summer...the colour of blood. In another square, 4 fans (symbol of frivolity) with horns in between.....horns of betrayed love (no comments please!!!) which indicate here an inconstant love, etc.. Go and see the kitchen garden at the lower level, it's a masterpiece!! 12,500 square meters on nine parterres of vegetables, geometrically disposed and bordered by fruit trees.
It’s from the castle tower that you have the best view on this colour splendour.

Bibliography

Guide du Patrimoine, Centre, Val de Loire , by Perouse de Montclos (ed.Hachette 1992)—Het dal van de Loire, by A.Sperber (Brussels, ed.Harenberg 1992),---Par les champs et par les greves, by G.Flaubert (1885)—Guide du Routard 1998 (ed.Hachette)—de kastelen van Frankrijk, by L.P.Boon (1956)-Villandry et Jardins (folder at the entrance of chateau)