|
Menton,
a haven for last
century's aristocracy
Menton,
visiting town (1)
|
Let’s now start a visit
and walk through Menton. You can do it in two parts, spreading it over two days.
To appreciate the old town
from a distance, do as the elderly residents of Menton: loiter on the Promenade
du Soleil, the pier along the old port to have a good view of
old Menton and the sea views. Belle Epoque villas, epitomised by the charming dilapidated
Le Pin Doré and similar pastel coloured hotels are stretched along large sea boulevards
, with a lot of hotels, condominiums and
palm-trees. Seen from the pier and old
fishing harbour, the Vieux-Menton is stacked on the hillside, framed by rugged
mountains and shimmering reflection.
You can see the old cemetery above the old city lying on a hill,
sustained by arcades, with narrow reclining
streets.
The Vieux-Menton, is mostly pedestrianised. The best starting point for a visit
would be the MARCHE COUVERT, a quirky link between two areas. There is a
profusion of lemons, artichokes, fogs and other exotic fruit, next to the
market's green, yellow and brown ceramics. Next to the market, if you are a fish
lover or even a simple curious tourist, is the centre of Menton's small but
thriving fish trade: the rue des Marins. Anchovies, sardines are still fished
and are eaten fried with lemon or in a spicy omelette. Have a treat in the
surrounding restaurants where the s-fish is often served with "fleurs
farcies", courgette flowers stuffed with cheese, tomatoes and garlic.
Next to the Marché Couvert is the place du Marché, another covered market, his square and
flower market. The ambiance is great in the morning. The
Place aux Herbes that follows, where you should concentrate on the chestnut
trees, statue and fountain, and ignore please the lavender stalls, North African
trinket-sellers and antique shop. Every Friday a brocante
(collectibles) market is held here.
But the most commercial place in Menton is the bustling rue Saint-Michel, you
will notice that in a flip. We arrive on the place St. Michel with the Cathedral
also named CHURCH OF ST.MICHEL . In front of it, a pebble mosaic courtyard of
striking Italianate design. Facade and atmosphere are essentially baroque, being
built in 1619. Its clustered towers
appear inseparable. A clock tower, 53 meters high is
covered with ochre and red tiles. The interior is of an incredibly coloured. Under a painted vaulted roof all the
columns of the church are dressed with beautiful red hangings in Genoan damask
linen and
form a sumptuous canopy above the altar. Every
year in August, since 1950 a "Festival de musique de chambre” is
organized in this church.
On the same square, la
CHAPELLE DES PENITENTS BLANCS. Nice white-grey Renaissance facade and
elegant garlands of stucco flowers.
From the Cathedral, climb the he
steep rue Mattoni, with its covered passages, followed by rue de la Cote, even
steeper, joining the winding rue du Vieux-Chateau. All around you only calm, quietness
and fresh air, despite the linen drying and lazy cats sleeping in the sun.
Finally we arrive at the Italianate cemetery, with its four terraces, each
devoted to a different faith,
 A
smiling marble angel looks over the stunning view on the Vieille Ville . Pine
trees abound, and the walkways are carpeted with their needles. From here the
views are fabulous – Italy to the east, Monaco to the west, the mountains in
the back and in front – the Mediterranean. Notice the number of foreign
graves. Inscriptions
on the graves confirm that Menton used to be a city where a lot of
rich foreigners came searching a cure for healing their tuberculosis. But they
ended often in this cemetery! Aubrey
Beardsley, the illustrator is joined by Webb Ellis, the founder of rugby. Poignant
inscriptions on tombs like the one on the tomb of Evelyn, wife of William Rosamond of
Toronto (Canada!), who died at the age of 19. Cats
themselves are warming up in the sun on Prince Youssoupov's tomb, unafraid of
Rasputin's murderer.
You
can now return to the place St.Michel through the very scarped rue des
Ecoles-Pie and the rue de Brea arriving at the church des Penitents-Noirs.
Bibliography:
Tobias Smollet, "Travels through France and Italy", (Oxford University
Press, Oxford, New-York in the series World Classics), John Pemble, "the
Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the South", (Oxford
University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French
Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982), “Bordering the Italian
Riviera, Menton”, by Gianni Rivero,
(ed.Villegiature)
"Guides
du Routard 1998", (ed.Hachette)
|
back to Cote d'Azur main page
Menton,
visiting town (2),
wedding
hall, Carnoles
palace and Cocteau
|
