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From steep limestone
rocks to a bridge where you pay toll just for pleasure, from a many
coloured garden to a dashing parade horse, from a calvados distiller to a
cow. And from sandy beach to green, soft hilly country to mountainous
wall. Normandy is a many-sided destination.
Claude Monet said one:” I can do only two things: paint and garden.” I
can’t do any of both, but its dahlias, asters, gladioli, poppy-heads and
peonies inspire me. Giverny, Monet, you have them already in my “daytrips
from Paris” series, but I keep reminding that wonderful place.
Normandy owns a great deal to the Seine river. It guides us from Paris
into Normandy, through a valley with rose fields and right away those
typical skilled worker houses.
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Chateau
Gaillard
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In Les Andelys we
see, high up on a hill, the 12th century castle of
Chateau-Gaillard, the chateau of Richard Lionheart. It looks carved in one
piece out of the limestone rocks, starting already here to show but will
surprise us on the Normandy coast. Along many, many miles, steep
chalk-cliffs run along the sea, lighting up in the sun. This is the Cote d’Albatre,
alabaster coast.
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Click to
enlarge
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The most
Nordic harbour is LeTréport. The
port is empty, the silt glitters like mother-of-pearl, and small boats
wait helplessly for high tide. On the quays, neon lights attract attention
to restaurants and waffle joints. At “La Viennoise” you can buy
chocolate shrimps and oyster bonbons, but we (Annie and me, Jack) want to
taste the real sea surprises and enter a place where we see that most
people go. . “All we prepare comes directly from Honfleur, Trouville and
own port”, assures the waitress. And we taste it, fresher than that and
you die!
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Etretat Arch
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Honfleur
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Riding through the
famous ports of Dieppe and Fécamp we arrive in Etretat, seeing suddenly a
treacherous sky above a changing sea, sometimes grey, then again blue or
even purple. We loiter on the crackling pebble beach, enjoying the
fabulous portals at each side of the chalk rocks, triumph arches, cut by
the sea and where the waves swish around playfully.
This is only a small part of Normandy and I will take you around all the
parts I visited, from Etretat to Mont-Saint-Michel, Deauville, Alençon to
Rouen, passing Caen, Cherbourg, Le Havre, Lisieux, Pays d’Auge and many
more. I will not forget the landing beaches and WWII memorials, the moving
story of your boys and ours who liberated Europe through the landing in
Normandy. A special section will be the home for the landing essays.
I will start with a brief (?), well not too long, I promise, historical
presentation of Normandy, whose inhabitants once conquered Britannia, a
long time ago. I researched a lot of historical pictures that are now
public domain to illustrate Normandy from the Roman period, Rotomagus
(Rouen) to the Channel tunnel. |