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NORMANDY
Dieppe-Even more surprising and charming town
Loiter in the GRAND RUE, where
couture shops happily neighbor bookshops, antique shops, groceries,
charcutiers, souvenir shops with funny items like chocolate sardines in a tin or
a set of "boules". The most vivid and animated day is Saturday, big
MARKET DAY. One of the most picturesque weekly events in Dieppe. Very convivial,
a country market overflowed with all the products of the Norman countryside and
it managed to keep its rural character. Stunning, a huge British colony is
present, popped out of nowhere, but they are present! It's all over the center
of Dieppe, from the Grand Rue up to the Puits-Salé, rue Saint-Jacques and the
place Nationale. Elderly farm wives carry their baskets with beans or spring
onions to large and enormous vans with more varieties of cheese than you ever
knew existed. It's a tide of the most animated, colorful, mouth-watering display
you can imagine.
In
the heart of Dieppe, the "Café des Tribunaux" is an impressive old
inn and still the social center of town. Many artists painted it, like Sickert
and Blanche. Besides this area is the quarter of SAINT-JACQUES, painted by
Pissarro, out of his window at the hotel de Commerce on the place Nationale. He
painted many variations of the St.Jacques church and wrote finally to his son
Lucien: the fair is here just now. Wooden horses, music by Gounod and other
classics on the steam organ. I can't sleep!"
But there is another Dieppe: this ancient fishers quarter, which concentrated in
the 16th century, all ivory and spice commerce: LE POLLET. After that it
returned to its fishing role up to WWI. It's fro this quarter that you acceded
the church of NOTRE DAME DE BON SECOURS. From the rue du Petit Fort with its
well-preserved brick and flint fishermen's cottages, steps climb to the
semaphore and the church, with magnificent views from the cliff.
This walk is highly romantic. You can see down on the quay facades nibbled to
Swiss cheese by the greedy elements.
To finish this Dieppe series, here are two out of town trips, worth making.
First, the 11th century fortified castle of CHATEAU D'ARQUES LA BATAILLE, a
total ruin now, built on the rocky edge of a cliff with a beautiful view on the
alluring valley and the forest of Arques. It's in this idyllic valley that in
1589, Henri IV and his 7,000 soldiers defended the castle against 30,000, led by
the duke of Mayenne. A monument, commemorating the victory of Henri IV has been
erected.
The CHATEAU DE MIROMESNIL is another interesting excursion idea. It's said that
Guy de Maupassant was born in this 17th century monumental chateau.
More about Dieppe on my web site.
Bibliography
"The Dieppe Connection:The Town and Its Artists from Turner to Braque by
Press Herbert (1992) Rendezvous at Dieppe by Ernest Langford (1998), Ville de
Dieppe information leaflet, "Hoog Normandie" by Sandra Vermoolen( ANWB
reisgidsen,Den Haag)
Even more surprising, charming town!
Saturday market-walk and excursions