Our third walk will take us round one of the most elegant of Amsterdam’s canal rings, calling at two lively markets, two historic churches, a moving and world famous memorial to the victims of the holocaust and two contrasting art museums.
Leaving Stationsplein, turn right, follow Prins Hendrikkade to where it crosses the Singel, turn left, then right along Brouwersgracht, a charming canal, despite it is here that in the 17^th century all polluting industry of the city was assembled: gun powder, saltpetre, heavy oils, as well as the largest breweries. Then left again across the first bridge you reach and follow Brouwersgracht to its junction with Prinsengracht. If a boat is passing, pause to admire the skill with which the vessel is piloted through the two narrow bridges, which span the two canals here. From here cross Prinsengracht by Lekkeresluis (Sweet bridge, named after the pancakes once sold there). CAFÉ PAPENEILAND, at no.2 Prinsengracht is one of the several “brown cafés” which claim the title of Amsterdam’s oldest. None have firm historical proofs to back up their claim. The café, with its fine step-gables, dates from 1642, although it is said that a coffin-maker and undertaker sold drink here as early as 1600, probably finding a market among the mourners.
The PRINSENGRACHT is the outermost of three canal rings built during Amsterdam’s Golden Age to house its fresh aristocracy and wealthy merchants. It owes its name to the Prince of Orange, hero is the revolt against the Spaniards. This canal has a different charm as the others. Poorer in fine sculptured facades, it is bordered by inhabited barges, sort of floating houses, symbolizing a different way of living. When weather permits, people sip a coffee on their terrace and certain even cultivate a small garden. Astonishing!
On the canal stand two churches built by the newly triumphant Protestant Reformers of the 17^th century, plus a fine array of prosperous merchant’s mansions of the Golden Age. Walk from Lekkeresluis southwards down the Westside of the canal towards our first landmark, the NOORDERKERK (North Church). Not a superb edifice, massive, heavy and without grace, built in brown brick and grey slate.  Only the façade windows have a little bit of elegance. Notice also the departure from the earlier architectural traditions of the Catholic Church. Instead of having nave, transept, choir and altar, it has the plan of a Greek cross.
On a Saturday, the square between the church and the canal is lined with the stalls of the BOERENMARKT also called the NOORDERMARKT. Sympathetic and popular. Cereals, cheeses, vegetables, flowers and many more. If you happen to be in the Jordaan area you can always come and loiter here.
On the north side of the square bird-fanciers gather with cages full of fancy poultry, racing pigeons, parrots, exotic finches and songbirds. The chickens and cockerels do not look too unhappy, but the cramped cages full of tiny songbirds are depressing.
If you need a break now, sit down at the “Winkelcafé”, corner Westerstraat and no.43 Noordermarkt. Have a thick piece of apple tart with whipped cream, like the Dutch women, coming from their shopping and making here their gourmand stop.

Bibliography

Holland, by Adam Hopkins (Faber and Faber, 1988), Penguin Guide to Amsterdam (ed.Vincent Westzaan, Penguin 1990), Guide du Routard 1998 (ed.Hachette), -Dwalen door Amsterdam en reizen door de Benelux, ( ed. Lekturama 1984), “Amsterdam:The life of a city” by Geoffrey Cotterell (Saxon house 1974)