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Maison
Renoir
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We continue by car to climb
to the HAUTS-DE-CAGNES and arrive on the Place du Chateau. The only thing to do
here is to loiter along the streets lined with houses of the 15th
century and enjoy the views everywhere you go. It is a labyrinth steep winding
streets and tiny squares, houses decorated with terracotta pots of flowering
jasmine and geraniums. On the
square you have large café terraces where it is so agreeable to inhale the air,
much fresher than along the coast. Everything is very new and sophisticated.
There is even a pedestrian area thanks to a 14 level parking dug in the
underground. Fully computerised, a typical Cote d'Azur conjunction of modern
technology and ancient history.
But sitting on the terrace, having that supreme “dolce
farniente” we remark a large castle. It
is not only a castle but also a museum, with a museum of the “olive tree”
which can’t hurt us since we visited Renoir’s garden!!
The
Chateau-Musee, like we see it from our terrace was built in 1310 by Rainier
Grimaldi. But in 1620 a lot of changments were operated in the castle to give it
the appearance it has now. We first notice the very cool and pleasantly open
courtyard with an impressive pepper tree at the entrance. Flags arte
flapping three stores above. It's a typical Cote d'Azur museum with everything
and finally not so interesting items in it. Local historical artefacts, bad
local paintings housed in wonderful rooms.
Very special is the 17th century gallery on the first floor. The
ceiling is splendidly painted by the Genovese Carlone. The former boudoir is
arranged as a museum SUZY SOLIDOR, which
you can't ignore. She was a 1930s nightclub singer and had a famous nightclub in
Paris. She had the brilliant idea of letting all her artistic friends paint her.
In the end, she had 224 portraits of which 47 are on display here.
Imagine that there is a “musee d’Art Mediterraneen since 1953 on the upper
floor, as if the Cote hadn’t enough of these museums!! Dedicated to artists that
have worked on the Cote d'Azur: Vasarely, Duffy. Chagall,
Foujita, Cocteau, etc....
When you leave town through the northeast side via the place and montée du
chateau, you will arrive at the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-la-Protection. A bijou
14th century building containing beautiful frescoes of 1530.
Bibliography:
John
Pemble, "the Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the
South", (Oxford University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur.
Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982) Stephen
Liegeard, "La Cote d'Azur (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988), Guide du Routard 1998-99,
Patrick Howarth, “When the Riviera was ours” (Century, London 1977),
Villages de la Cote, (touristic folder issued by the Nice tourist office, 1997)
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