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La
Colombe d'Or
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Restaurants
Mostly tourist traps, but
you can’t avoid them. The only special and world known is “La
Colombe d’Or”
Art has lived with Saint-Paul for 100 years but since the years 1925, there was
a modest little tavern at the entrance of the village of Saint-Paul de Vence,
"Le Robinson", attracted the artist painters from the Cote who needed
a bit countryside air. The owner of the auberge had
a son: Paul Roux. Having a keen sense of business and talent, this Paul Roux
soon discovered that artists as Signac, Soutine and others, completely unknown
at that time came often to his fathers place. He rebuilt the auberge and made it
into a hotel: "La Colombe d'Or" was born! He made a grand opening by
inviting journalists and personalities. It
soon became a meeting place for a bevy of artists, including Picaso, Utrillo,
Bonnard, Chagall, Modigliani, Soutine, who left behind canvasses, as legend says
to pay for long-running accounts....They came in crowds, when they heard about
the free lodging.
Whatever the truth, the Colombe d’Or
now has assembled its own priceless and private collection of paintings
including a ceramic on the wall of the terrace Paul Roux asked Fernand Leger to
create.
Other artists and famous writers stayed also at the hotel: Rudyard Kipling,
Maeterlinck, Giono, Maurice Chevalier, and Mistinguett. In the 40's it movie
artists who paraded around: Clouzot, Carne, Prevert. The wedding reception
dinner of Yves Montand and Simone Signoret was held in the Colombe d'Or.
Paul Roux died in 1953 and his descendants kept everything the way it was and
you can still admire the paintings collection.
Count 400 FF a person for a meal. You come here more " for the pleasure of the eyes"
as for the cuisine, refined, without being extraordinary. And above all, you
leave the place with nostalgia....Prices 55-85 €.
Restaurant La Brouette, 830 route de Cagnes tel 0493586716
This Danish couple opened this pleasant place, surrounded by greenery, over 25 years ago. All joyful laughter and friendliness are combined with northern Europe and provencal cuisine: smoked herring, truite fumé a l'aneth, mousse glacée aux airelles. Menu for
25 €. Carte: 15-30 €
Hotels
There are a few very
expensive luxury places in Saint-Paul. I don’t mention them because the prices
go from 800-1900 FF. You can find them in the Michelin or Gault/Millau. But here
are the only two in affordable prices that are very good in my opinion.
Like
the:
Hotel
La Grande Bastide,
1350 route de la Colle tel 0493325030 fax
0493325059
Comfortable rooms, that have kept
their provencal character in this nicely old renovated building on the road to
the village. Sympathetic reception. Pool and garden are a little smallish.
Rooms 100-145 €. Apartments 150- 230 €
Auberge
Le Hameau,
528 route de la Colle tel 0493328024 fax 0493325575
Standing quietly on on a hillside outside the walls a big "mas" awaits you with spacious and romantic rooms, attractively furnished in country style. The setting can be called "delightful". Spacious
lounge, old fashioned tables and lamps. You can also rent a small apartment. Dominated by the old village. Prefer those of the main building than those of the annex, more modern. Doubles go for
69 to 105 €. Certain rooms have airco. A very good address, if not the only reasonable in Saint-Paul. A lot of English and American people come
here. I recommend a long in advance booking.
Hostellerie Les Messugues, impasse des Messugues tel 0493328012 fax 0493329415
A little outside the village (1 km) this provencal house with all modern comfort. Rooms are comfortable and very agreeable. Astonishing pretty bathrooms. And the poll is not a luxury during the summer ;-). Rooms for
69-110 €.
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