Paris main visit page 2

Paris-20th arr-Belleville (2)-Incredible multi ethnic open air market

Paris main visit page 2

The RUE DE BELLEVILLE was already a busy main street when Belleville was still considered as extra-muros, outside Paris, and today it kept that lively atmosphere packed with small shops.
Consider Belleville’s contemporary history: in 1920, massive arrival of Armenians, Greeks, Polish Jews (working in garment and shoemaking). From the 1960’s on, new immigrants from North Africa (Tunisian and Algerian Jews) move the ancient settlers in new high rise (HLM) in Sarcelles and Creteil. Finally the black Africans arrive in the 80’s, together with the Asians. Above all that, Belleville incorporates French natives who obtain a social lodgement without having any other choice. Today the most cosmopolite area of Paris but recent renovation plans will undoubtedly ruin and destroy thus unique balance and atmosphere.Look inside the four courtyards at no.38
This great diversity and multi cultural societies to watch closely on the open-air markets on Tuesdays and Friday mornings (until 13.00) between the metro stations Belleville and Menilmontant. Stalls line along several kilometres up to the famous entrance of the cemetery du Père Lachaise. A real adventure for all your senses. Dark red pomegranates next to juicy Chinese leeches, six different sorts of potatoes, like the sweet African potato. Around noon the crowd is enormous, coming from all parts around Paris and even further. Buyers and sellers argue, bargain in a deafening Babylonian language confusion. I heard that a writer published a study about the special language used here.
If you take your time to loiter from one stall to another, you’re in for a culinary world tour. Odours of fresh curry, fresh harvested mint, Turkish mocha, Caribbean rum and sweet sesame cookies. And in the scarcely lighted shops you can buy all sorts of second hand clothes.
Around the metro station of Menilmontant you can visit the musée Edith Piaf (already mention ed in my hidden Paris series)
You got the picture. Belleville is not exactly a touristy destination and that’s good! It is a certain atmosphere and life rhythm, that enliven this area, together with the incredible diversity of its ethnics. If you happen to be on the hilly side of Belleville, try some “ethnic restaurants” (they are plenty).

  Bibliography

Dictionnaire historique de la ville de Paris, by Jacques Hillaire(ed.Minuit)-Le Guide du Promeneur, Parigramme (guides par arrondissement)-Le Pieton de Paris, by Leon Lafargue (Ed.Gallimard), De Lutèce à Paris, by Philippe Velay (ed.CNRS)

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