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Paris through the Ages-The Grand Century of Ile Saint Louis, more anecdotes and an unexpected tennis court (part 2) (all credit to Arthur Gillette)

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Turn the corner now to rue Legrattier and look at no.5 and 6. The name of Pierre-André Couffinhal will certainly not sound familiar, why should it? He lived in one of these houses during the Revolution. He was a lawyer and friend of Robespierre became a Revolutionary Tribunal judge and sent many people to the gallows and other death. He must not have been very bright, since he said to the famous chemist (all chemists in the world know him) Lavoisier, who was being indicted and later beheaded: “The Republic doesn’t need scientists!” When the tide turned against Robespierre, Couffinhal escaped by rowboat to an island where the Eiffel tower stands today and his in riverside reeds for five days. Caught, he met the same fate he dispatched so many others.

Little Bacchus

Continue in the rue Legrattier and turn to your right in the main street of the Ile Saint Louis: the rue Saint Louis en l’Ie. Don’t pass without noticing the no.64. And old restaurant over whose door presides “Little Bacchus” crowned with grapes and astride a cask representing the liquid refreshing available inside. The door is badly charred by fire, says Arthur Gillette, but is still recognisable.

Hotel Chenizot

At no.51-53 (hotel Chenizot) can be considered as a marvel of the first third of the 17th century architecture and was used for many years by an Archbishop (Mgr.Affre), Trying to separate insurgents and troops at a barricade Place de la Bastille, a bullet struck him in the kidney; He died three days later saying: “Let my blood be the last spilt…”
Let’s move easterward along the rue Saint Louis en l’Ile to no.54. You will never guess what this place is…. It’s a tennis court! “Tennis court?” Indeed, not Roland Garros of course, certainly not Wimbledon but a more venerable dating from…..1637. Enter the courtyard and peer through the plate glass window: it’s quite clear that this is a squash-court-like ground floor space with a wooden beamed fan’s balcony to the rear. This is the beginning of the “Real Royal Tennis” of the sort dear to English King Henry VIII who, played at Hampton Court Palace.” Tennis” does, after all comes from the French “tenez”-“Take!” expostulated by payers when serving. Arthur doesn’t understand why the present hoteliers were allowed to stick an elevator smack dab in the middle of this evocative place. Mystery!

Rue Budé 2

Turn now in the rue Budé and stop at no.2, the 1960’s home of James Jones (From here to Eternity). Legend says that he bought one floor of this building with the proceeds of his best seller. Each success thereafter enabled him to acquire another storey until e owned the whole house; Being very convivial, he hosted memorable Sunday afternoon poker games, serving refreshments to guests who, when they tired of the splendid view of the seine, could contemplate his collection of maces, pikes and other antique military hardware.
Retrace now your steps to rue Saint Louis en l’Ile again, turning right, noting the aerated bell tower of the church at no.19bis, a replacement of a 1749 knocked down one by a tremendous storm. This is perhaps unique in France (in Arthur’s opinion) and certainly reminiscence of the openwork towers of many churches on the very windy Castilian plain you know: where the rain stays mainly in the plain). Turn right into the rue Poulletier, and along to the quai de Béthune. Look on the wall just above the sidewalk across from rue Poulletier: you will see a small sign “Crue” indicating the rivers’ level during the great flood in 1910.
Order Arthur's walking map by mailing to Armedv@aol.com evocating my name : Jack.

Bibliography

The Grand Century of Ile Saint-Louis, stroll no.7 in the series "Paris
through the Ages", by Arthur Gillette (ed. Media-Cartes)