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The "quartier distingué", the 16th arrondissement is one of the largest in Paris has the reputation of a snobbish and stiff neighborhood. If you judge only by the sight of the stately and very expensive apartment buildings, chique boulevards and (ex) famous inhabitants like Maria Callas, Aristotle Onassis and prince Rainier of Monaco, you will be confirmed in that opinion. Even a shop like "Frank et Fils", an exclusive, beautiful department store in the rue de Passy no. 80, tel 0144143800, adds to the snobbish imago. Nevertheless, the area is worth a visit, it is even a MUST, even only to avoid the tourist stampede, unknown in thses areas.
In this series of 5 articles I will visit each time another shop in Passy with the matching recommendations.
POINT A LA
LIGNE, 67 avenue Victor Hugo tel 0145008701 is a Mecca for candle amateurs. You cannot ignore it, it is THE place. A charming shop, candles everywhere. The assortment is made of all odours, sizes, colours and models. And nicely assorted along the walls of the shop.
I asked the manager Catherine how long this existed, since a friend told me about the day earlier. "Eighteen years" she said very proudly. "We managed to build a very faithful clientele and that's no wonder if you consider that we change our assortment every two months. Candles are very dependant on trends, how surprising this must sound. For the moment it are the classic models, which are "in " again. Simple thump candles in soft ivory colours but the ones with Japanese inscriptions on it sell very well."
Price varies -enormously, as well as the packing. At your demand, every candle is packed with care in coloured paper with matching knots and other scrolls and flourishes.
Eat en drink in Passy:
The 16th is not so famous about its modern culinary performances. But it seems that changments are in sight! Let's forget" Bon", the latest of Philippe Starck, 25 rue de la Pompe", beautiful but extremely inedible, and let's concentrate to quality.
Boulangerie Paul, 61 rue de la Pompe tel 0145035560, a traditional bakery with sublime artisanal rolls and bread.
Toastissimo, 16 rue Jean Bologne, with Italian roasted sandwiches (tuna to baked aubergine).
Lina's, 112 avenue Kleber, part of a chain but has marvellous biologic stuffed rolls.
La Gare, 19 chausée de la Muette, 16th century train station, turned into a modern restaurant.
Oum el Banine, 16 bis rue Dufresnoy, Moroccan restaurant with a great dish that I advise to all amateurs: the "kefta tagine".
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