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Before reading what will follow you should
absolutely have a peek in that wonderful shoe shop "MAUD FRIZON. These are hand
made shoes, an icon for French Haute Couture.
Paris is a paradise for shopping, there is no doubt about, for rich and for poor, Paris IS the place. Capital of high fashion, challenged fifteen year sago by Florence and Milan, but it fell back on its both feet, and how! Not only high fashion, but also gourmet foods. Luxury products, everywhere you turn are colors, textures, shapes and scents. Of course, innocent tourist, you are the prefect bait to fall into the classic tourist traps you will find inevitably on the boulevards and established tourist routes. If you're smart and listen to me, go a little off the beaten track and you can find beautiful and unusual items to suit any purse. The only secret lies in knowing where to look.
There are several shopping areas in Paris. Let's explore them one by one.
The most luxurious, (why not?): and therefore expensive shopping streets in Paris: the RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORE, where the glitterati of Paris fashion has to be found.
If you are too young to wear this kind of haute couture, head for LES HALLES, where many of the city's most innovative designers are also located. Lately, the avant-garde design found a new location: the area behind the Bastille. If you are willing to venture off the main shopping streets, it is still possible to buy direct from workshops at considerable discounts.
If art galleries and fine antiques are your thing, the LEFT BANK (Rive Gauche) is the place to go. It also boasts a wide selection of designer shoppings (rue du Four, Rue de Rennes) and some good discount stores.
And if your husband gets it on his nerves, while you are stopping at every display window (I hate it :-), but not Annie), combine sightseeing with buying rage in the Marais, oldest part of Paris, with cute streets crammed with wonderful boutiques, imaginative gift shops and the most mouth watering delis in the capital.
And for a nostalgic glimpse of the old Paris shopping galleries, elegant shopping arcades of the 19th century, follow my walk described in one of my Paris sketches (main Paris Visit link to Paris Sketches and click on Shopping with dry feet). Most are found I the area around the Palais Royal.
Halles:
Located in the first and the 2nd arrondissement, where the famous Pavillons Baltard had their highlights, timesof Emile Zola, meat, fish and vegetable markets, the early morning onion soup in the numerous cafes around serving all night.
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Dries Van Noten outfit
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These times are gone, forever. A part of Paris soul disappeared when they decided to tear it don, leave a gaping hole for years and finally build a giant underground shopping center, the infamous FORUM DES HALLES.
Holy land of the younger trend, all kind of shops, trendy, old-fashioned, snacks, the largest book and record shop of France (FNAC).
This area is something of a paradox: it manages to be both seedy and trendy, although, unfortunately, many of the ships tend to be cheap and touristy. But if you look slightly to the north you will find some of the best shopping in the city.
Inside the apple-green interior of the shop "l'Absinthe" on the rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau are clothes from Katharine Hammet and the new Belgian international star: Dries Van Noten. Tucked away in the courtyard at number 62 is one of the most beautiful shops in Paris: Sybilla, which stocks the exquisite clothes of the Spanish designer of that name.
Loiter around the rue Etienne Marcel, look at Kashiyama stocks, mainly men's wear, designer gear, often at discount prices. Have a good time with the witty hats of Marie Mercie's: they are a delight. Her narrow shop is at no. 56 rue Tiquetonne. Continue then to the wonderful market street of the rue Montorgeuil. Take a break hereto savor the mouth-watering patisseries available in the many bakeries, which line the street.
You like foie gras??Stop then on the rue Montmartre in the Comptoir De La Gastronomie for a good selection of foie gras and at Tehen for figure-skimming outfits in fluid jersey.
The designer Agnes B has a lot of fans and they should head for the narrow rue du Jour where they will also find her Lolita line for teenage sirens, and further down Agnes B Homme.
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Agnes B collection
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In the same street a lot of other young designers like Claudie Pierlot, or silk knitwear at Poles. For another selection-of young designers, try Details at number 15. Also kid clothes. Wonderful children shoes are sold next door at Pompadi, quite original designs. La Droguerie sells a rainbow selection of wools, buttons, chunky beads, feathers, ribbons, etc....Junior Gaultier stocks the less expensive line Paris's bad boy of fashion.
Next pots we explore another shopping street: rue Etienne Marcel, which runs from the down market boulevard de Sebastopol to the elegant 17th century Place des Victoires (see my Paris visit page in the first arrondissement). This square designed by the same architect as the place Vendome, Jules-Hardouin-Mansart was build also to honor Louis XIV in 1685.The original statue of Louis XIV, on a pedestal supported by four chained prisoners, was dressed in royal coat and crowned by Victory. The place des Victoires is home to many of Paris most exclusive designers.
Place des Victoires and Etienne Marcel
It has been a few years I didn't stroll around the place des Victoires, but I reckon not much has changed since last time.
For hip interiors, try En Attendant Les Barbares with electrical furniture by 40 French designers. Go to Equipment's tiny shop for a wonderful selection of unisex shirts in rainbow silks.
At the rue du Louvre no.27 bis, Ventilo's three-story emporium has American country style clothing for men, women and children. Best of all is the home furnishing department with its natural linens and the pleasant wicker furnished tearoom on the top floor.
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Comme des Garcons
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Dorotheé bis
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Great and world known designers are "Comme des Garcons " and "Doro thee Bis". Not actually areal person but a French fashion design company owned by Elie Jacobson and his wife Jacqueline who did the actual designs. Each of their design boutiques were known to have a life-size rag doll sitting in the chair somewhere on the premises.
Both are on the rue Etienne Marcel (again). Be sure to check out the exquisite jewellery-filled shelves of the tiny Gas. Jean Louis Imbert has great accessories and leather goods. And lest' not forget the all known British chain "Joseph" with its amazing sweaters and butter-soft leather and suedes by Maxwell Parrish.
Another living legend is Yohji Yamamoto, at 44 rue Etienne Marcel. Its statuesque assistants model the designer's deconstructivist black and white creations. . The Yamamoto me'ns shop is at no.45 with more elegant clothes from the same minimalist palette.
Musée & Compagnie at 49 contains a small but exact choice of items inspired by the Paris museums. A good place to find a gift, unusual and inexpensive.
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Kenzo collection
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Dolce Gabana
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Back to Place des Victoires, enter the Cacharel shop at no 5. Next door it is Kenzo's and his famous men's classics in jazzy colors. For women it is upstairs. Kenzo Enfants (children) is tucked away in the courtyard of no.3 in a charmingly converted atelier. The world known shoemaker, Stephane Kelian, is at no.6, darling of the Paris style crowd.
Would be Vanessa Paradis look-alikes (Lolita women), go next door to, Aridza Bross for their 1970's gear. This is a good place for crochet dresses and waistcoats and canvas espadrilles.
Victoire at nos.10-12is a smaller version of London's Browns, stocking Jill Sander, Max Mara and Dolce Gabana, among others while American sportswear for two sexes are available in the Esprit shop on the corner of the rue Etienne Marcel.
On rue Latinat, Spanish designer Adolfo Dominguez's seductively simple tailored clothes for men and women in ice cream shades are well worth a look, although prices tend to be high.
Rue Croix des Petits Champs-Arcades Palais Royal
Rue Croix des Petits Champs is the street that continues the Etienne Marcel at the other side of the Place des Victoires. You are here in the genuine Paris of the 19th century. An excellent area for accessories, like Soca sell Spanish-inspired leather bags and belts just next to Timberland at no.52.
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Mulberry
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 Across the street at 45, Mulberry stocks beautiful leather goods for the hunting, fishing and shooting set. Check out tie wonderful filofaxes in alligator. Eveningwear and dresses at Isabel Martin’s romantic shop. Left of the street, entrance to the delicious gallery Vivienne (described elsewhere in my site). There, Jean Paul Gaultier’s boutique is just one of the chic stores. Around the corner on rue Herold, be sure to check out SIC, a tiny boutique with an eclectic collection of handmade bags, jewelery and scarves. And then there is Leonidas, THE Belgian chocolate giant, exquisite pralines are also to buy.
From here make a stroll though the graceful arcades of the PALAIS ROYAL. I described already this part of Paris (1st arrondissement). The arcades are lined with curious shops and galleries. Perfect conserved old designer clothes for half the price at Didier Ludot and accessories of bygone age. The Audrey Hepburn look!! And Shiseido’s hand-stenciled lavender and mauve boutique is the only place in the world to find their distinctive scents.
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Passage Verdeau
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Many of the arcades were built in first half of the 19th century. They were the forerunnersof the modern shopping mall, centuries removed in atmosphere! They are ethereal, mysterious places, tingled with nostalgia.
The Passage Verdeau is the place to find antiquarian booksellers and old prints. Roland Buret is specialized in Tintin comic books and other memorabilia. Head for the passage Jouffroy (on the rue Montmartre) where at CINEDOC, you will find over 4,000 film posters, postcards and books. In the sale gallery M&G Segas stocks a unique and diverse selection of antique walking sticks. Old fashioned playing cards and paper dolls are the specialty of Pain d’Epices.
The Bastille area-New design.
The Bastille area developed over the last years to a new haven for
young designers and stylists. 11th and 12th arrondissement. Originally a working-class area. But rising rents have forced out of the some more avant-garde boutiques, but don't worry, there is still enough possibilities to find stylish clothes at good prices. Some of the best buys are in the workshops, which sell directly to the public. For wonderful one-off hats check the back room of Cheri Bibi on 82, rue de
Charonne. You can also order the hats. Raffia and lampshades are sold here too.
In 10, rue Theophile Roussel, a designer, Nathalie Dumeix, sells moderately priced clothes direct from her workshop. A lot of young designers picked that street to display their new ideas. Try them now, in a few years maybe, they will be too expensive.
 Magic Circle, at 9 boulevard Richard Lenoir stocks an electric mix of designer gear and "fripes" (second hand clothes) in an atmosphere of 1960s and '70s kitsch.
The cool black and white interior of l'Arbre à Lettres overlooks a
charming courtyard at 62, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. A classy selection of art and design books. In the tiny rue Davale, 21, a few jewellery designers show their work at Duelle.
If you are a furniture amateur, especially the period furniture, you should go to the rue de Charonne, once the heart of the furnishing making in the capital. For Art Deco, try Pirouette (29) and for the 1960's and 70s go to Dolce Vita (25). Antiquities at reasonable prices? Go to Mademoiselle at 36, rue Keller. Mirrors? The classy item for a classy interior? Paris has them also.
At Miroiterie St. Bernard, 4 passage Charles-Dallery, houses aglittering array of Venetian mirrors engraved with flowers and birds and wonderful colored glass wear and vases. Each piece is unique
Le Marais
The Marais in Paris used to be predominantly Jewish but lately the gay community is starting slowly to outnumber them. They are not exactly the same type of people, even if, yes sir, there exist also Jewish gays. But both communities live in peace and harmony and give this area its so special character.
Originally built on marshland the Marais is the oldest surviving area in Paris with its most atmospheric atmosphere, its wonderful delicatessen, selling mouth-watering falafels and poppy seed cake in a maze of narrow cobbled streets where some fashion designers decided it was time they should show their presence too. You see more and more high fashion boutiques.
Rue des Francs-Bourgeois is the backbone of the quarter, and the rue des Rosiers is the one around many of the kosher restaurants and delis are enclustered. 
Amateurs of patchwork, here is the prefect address for you!! You will not find it in any guide but Jack see only you get the best for the less money! "A la Bonne Renommée", 26 rue Vieille du Temple, is the home of patchwork, as you have never seen it before. They have exquisite cushions, bags, coats and eveningwear using scraps of richly coloured velvet and silk. The results are spectacular.
"Croissant, 3 rue Saint-Merri has original, delightful, handmade designs for babies and children up to nine years. " L'ECLAIREUR", 3 rue des Rosiers, is one of the trendiest shops in Paris/ Madonna, Sinead O'Connor, Roman Polanski and even Shwarzenegger has bought a pair of shoes here. The shop is a genuine "pot-pourri" of objets d'art" (velvet sofas, unique pates from Fornasetti, glass and silver ware, displayed cheek by jowl with the latest fashions by top designers.
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Dries van Noten fashion
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This shop, really very special, provides the prefect foil for the rich colours and eccentric shapes of Dolce&Gabana, Martin Margiela and our own Belgian genius, Anne de Meulemeester. Not to forget our other national Belgian fashion pride Dries Van Noten, Issey Mijake, Comme des Garcons and Paul Smith.....
Chevignon Trading Post is peculiar since it is housed in an ancient untouched Turkish bath (Hammam).
Another unusual shop front is "Le Garage", 23 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, located in an old boulangerie. Decorative fun shirts for men and women. At 45, rue des Francs-Bourgeois, "A l'Image Du Grenier sur l'Eau" recaptures another era with more than 1 million old postcards, film and advertising posters. The knitters should cross the street and look at Any Blatt's store wit its rainbow of mohair in subtle shades.
You have a sweet tooth? Visit the charmingly, old sweet shop, La Maison des Bonbons". To tell my opinion, no country has such good and tasty bonbons and chocolate like Belgium, but let's not get chauvinistic! For Art Deco furniture and ornaments go to" Hier Pour Demain", 4 rue des Francs Bourgeois. In the same street, "Autour du Monde" has several shops crammed with country furnishings, American style. For accessories try "Aicha" at 19 rue Pavée for unusual bags in leather, Anne Kaszer, 7 rue Malher for hats, and Didier Lavilla at 38 rue de Sévigne for great bags in soft suede. The Marais boast some great shoe shops, including the famous Stephan Kelian, rue de Sevigné, and Gelati, rue des Francs Bourgeois.
People, period sick of old time, like in the30's or 40's, Jean Gabin, Edith Piaf or Arletty style, (accordions, braces and floral dresses), and consider this being more than a an attitude but a whole way of life should look up,"L'Apache", 45 rue Vieille du Temple, a treasure trove of vintage clothes.
Collectors of old music instruments is in the rue Pas de la Mule at no.6 (André Bissonet)
And let's finish this long listing by walking along the graceful arcades of the 17th century Place des Vosges, where several top designers have their shops there including Issey Miyake and Poppi Moreni. It's also a good place to look for antiques and paintings.
Rive Gauche (Left Bank)
The Left Bank has a totally different "esprit" (state of mind) from the Right Bank. It still retains a unique atmosphere, while the Bohemian lifestyle of the and innovative design it once stood for in the 20's has largely moved to East Paris.
The intellectual heart of the "Rive Gauche" is now packed with designer boutiques and some residents claim they NEVER cross the Seine. For the dedicated shopper or just the casual browser, there are certainly enough interesting and unusual shops to keep you busy from morning to night!
IMHO (or let's admit it, in my wife's honest opinion):-), most of the best shopping action is to be found in the area north of the boulevard Saint-Germain and around Saint-Sulpice. First of all you have the rue de Rennes. Take the direction of the tour de Montparnasse which silhouette you can see from far. Stay on the left sidewalk and enter "Zara", a superb and extra cheap Spanish chain having shops all over the world, but worth the money, believe me. Zara stocks smart and classy clothes for both men and women. Labels include prices in many currencies which can be useful if you're a tourist.
Church (in your back), the fist street you cross puts you already in a deep, dramatic dilemma: right turn or left turn. Left runs the small rue du Four, but big in trendy, medium prices fashion shops (one of Annie's favourite streets!) with places like Vertigo, 16 rue du Four, Teenflo, 24, rue du Four, Tara Jamon also to find on the Champs Elysees (All Annie's favourite shops).
If you had made a right at the crossing of the rue du Four and the rue de Rennes you would be now in the rue de Grenelle. Among some of the capital's most chic boutiques consider a look at Sonya Rykiel Enfant and Inscription, brainchild of daughter Nathalie, whose styles tend to be more casual than her mother's. Princesse Tam Tam has pretty and fine cotton lingerie, but try to be slim, sizes are made mostly for thin women!
On the nearby rue des Saint Pères, Ines de la Fressange, former top model of Chanel and Lagerfeld, opened her candy coloured boutique at no.81. The incontestable star of today's fashion about hats is undeniably the Belgian designer Elvis Pompilio. His shop at 62 bis is the place to go for unconventional headgear. In this street you'll find also one of the best shoe shops in the city: Maud Frizon. For more shoes and accessories in fine leather continue down the rue du Cherche-Midi: Robert Clergerie is one of the great shops on this street.
 Even in August, the huge queue at POILANE stretches through the front door far into the street at no.8. This famous boulanger-bakery sells crusty country bread decorated with grapes and wheatsheafs. It is as beautiful to look, as it is delicious to eat it. Don't make the mistake to order an entire one, the loaves are so enormous you can order "un quart" an even if your appetite is small or you juts had lunch, take a thin slice personalised with your name. And to make you completely mad with desire (nothing sexual) but gastronomic! Nearby the colourful Comtesse du Barry, specialises in foie gras! How about that, with gift baskets and other mouth-watering gourmet items (like marmalade with whiskey).
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Du Barry Foie Gras
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Take it home with you, to England, the States or any county you're from. You will never find this again, or else priced ten times higher.
On the boulevard Saint-Germain, besides the dozens of shops off all kind I would single out SHU UEMURA, at no. 176, a treasure trove of make-up. Beloved of models and stylists, the reasonable prices, unbeatable colour range and beautiful brushes make this shop a must for any make-up enthusiast.
Traditional fabrics from Provence can be found at SOULEIADO, 3 rue Lobineau. Very popular with the Anglo-Saxons. More Provencal prints are stocked by Les Olivades on rue de Tournon.
Costume jewellery of the 20's are visible at 30, rue Bonaparte, "L'Heure du Bijou", lying and sparkling between the lace camisoles and delicate period costumes. For fine wines there is a 16th century wine cellar at 48, rue de la Montagne Sainte-Genevieve. One of Paris's best wine merchants, Mme Besse, has a long life experience and will offer you're her friendly and knowledgeable advice.
 Leading off Saint-Germain Boulevard, the "Cour du Commerce Saint-André" is one of the most charming, medieval looking open-air passages of Paris. It's cobbled streets is lined with shops and restaurants of which the famous (but inedible) Procope. Go to Via for the latest in French design, including Gaultier and Philippe Starck, Karawan for the today's very trendy kilims.
At 19, rue Gregoire de Tours, is one of the best-kept secrets in Paris: "Le Mouton à Cinq Pattes". It has been selling discounted designer style to elegant Parisians since 50 years. This is the place to pick up a Gaultier suit, Lang, Montana, Martine Sitbon pieces, or a Dior evening dress at huge discount prices. Make a quick jump to rue Princesse, where "Exactement Mauve", at no.5 sells exquisite necklaces and earrings of handmade glass pearls (beginning 220th century). And if you have a real decadent taste, and you want to refurnish your bathroom, have a look at the dimly lit interior at the gleam of luxury bathrooms fittings from a bygone age. Everything you need to make your bathing a truly decadent experience, can be found here.
A big hit with trendy Parisians is the "Conran Shop", at the corner of the rue du Bac and rue Babylone. Italian master knitwear Missoni 's rainbow sweaters can be found at 43, rue du Bac.
At the other side of the bd. Saint-Germain, for the very interested among you, who want the finest of the latest in trend, 'IRIE" is the shop and the designer combining contemporary fashion and classic elegance. Only for connoisseurs! Located 8, Rue du Pre Aux Cleres.
The place to go if you want a real talking point for the lighting of your sitting room is Volt & Watt, at 29 boulevard Raspail, stocking outrageous lamps. And to finish this area, the tiny boutique "L'Ibis Rouge" exposes exquisite made-measure wedding dresses and evening gowns in antique lave and pearls.
The Classics
This last part will take us to the major shopping venues of the faubourg Saint-Honoré, avenue Montaigne and the Great Department Stores.
The chiquest, ritziest shopping in Paris is to be found on the famous RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORE. Enumerating the list of haute couture and luxury boutiques concentrated between the avenue de Matignon and rue Royale is a long task: Lanvin, Hermes, Givenchy, Kenzo, St.Laurent, Cardin, Christian Lacroix, and God knows how many forgot. It continues on the avenue Montaigne with Dior, Vuitton, Chanel, Ungaro, Valentino, Joseph, Ines de la Fressange and more. If you’re around the Madeleine, don’t miss the French greengrocer to the stars, Fauchon. Personally I don’t like this kind of stores NOT AT ALL, but it are landmarks. On the same place de la Madeleine, at 26-28 is the Parisian version of Fortnum and Mason, where food takes the status of an art form.
And the “Grands Magasins”? Let’s not forget them, everybody has heard at least about one of them. Galleries Lafayette and Printemps on boulevard Haussman offer a tantalizing array of fashion and accessories in an atmosphere of 19th century elegance. You are short of time? You just want to get an idea which designers will appeal to you? These department stores are good way to get an overview of what is in the smaller boutiques.
Printemps renovate a few years ago with a renovated cosmetic department in ice cream shades and Art Deco and galleries Lafayette’s amazing lingerie department offers the widest selection in town.
To resume this other interesting and colorful part of the Parisian scheme here a few words about the colorful street markets, being part of the flavor of Paris. . They are integral to the life of each quartier. The most colorful are to be found on the rue Lepic, rue de Buci and rue Mouffetard, probably the most atmospheric of all. The latter was visited by Ernest Hemingway and Josephine Baker.
At the year round Marché aux Fleurs on the Ile de la Cité hot-house orchids mingle with spring daffodils, offering an explosion of color and scent. On Sunday, exotic birds add their song. But most birds and other pets are on the quay de la Megisserie. Even those destined for the cooking pot: geese, ducks, rabbits and even the odd goat!
Stamp collectors?? Don’t forget your magnifying glass and visit the “marché aux timbres” on Avenue Gabriel during the weekend, in search of valuable stamps.
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