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In the Jewish museum where I
saw the Overijssel poster, the main exhibits are precious objects from
synagogues. These gold and silver objects may give an impression of general
prosperity that would be far from the truth. By the end of the 19th
century, when the city’s Jewish population had reached 54,000, the Jodenbuuurt
could compete with the Jordaan for slum conditions. Picturesque it may have
been, but that much-vaunted quality lay in the eye of the beholder: the hawkers
of oranges, second hand suits, or broken cups and saucers would have gladly
sacrificed picturesqueness for decent clothes and a decent meal in their
stomachs. Yet, as in the Jordaan, shared miseries helped foster a strong
neighbourhood spirit, as well as humour and a local slang that entered into the
general language of Amsterdam. The Jews called Amsterdam “Makom”(meaning
“the place” in Hebrew), and other Amsterdammers eventually adopted the word
as slang term for the city, although they corrupted the form of the word to “Mokum”.
I’m very grateful to a few persons who help me to write and have the necessary
historical and
anecdotal background for this series of essays. I even have a Jewish English
teacher who corrects my articles about the Amsterdam Jews and makes them sound
impeccable in syntax. Didn’t you notice? This is not my usual writing with so
few English errors…(I hope ;-))
Anyway, Moses Mandelbaum, he is 83 now but has an extraordinary remembrance and
is vivid and active as a 30 year old man (may he live up to 120 years!) told me
the following:
“By the 1930’s, when I was a boy, the slums of the Waterlooplein area had
vanished. There were decent schools and decent housing. Moreover, the Amsterdam
municipal health service—free for
anyone who needed it—was as good as science could make it. Yet, these benign
changes had not diminished the old spirit of the quarter. Waterlooplein and the
Jodenbreestraat still scintillated with life, and the Sunday morning markets in
the Jodenbuurt brought people from the farthest corners of the city. Vendors
there had pitches so artful that they could have sold a hairbrush to a bald
man”.
The essence of Jewish humour is perhaps a capacity for irony, a dismissal of
life’s disasters with a joke at one’s own expense. If so, that tallied
precisely the mood of Amsterdam of the 1930’s. Holland was poor, small and
powerless against the vast political turbulence shaking the world. But because
of its political neutrality, the country was also tranquil. Their disasters were
minor, or at last they lay within the compass of normal human experience. But
that would change with awful suddenness.
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