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D-Day
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St-Mére l'Eglise
Caen-Musée
pour le Paix
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Benouville
Ranville
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Bay of Veys, 0.15 hours on
June 5, 1944. The first wave of 17.000 American paratroopers just jumped off
three C-47 and will try to land or around Saint-Mere-Eglise or north of
Carentan. They dispose quickly their radio beacons, around
Saint-Germain-de-Varreville, in order to guide the 819 planes already flying
over the Cotentin. Main objective: to destroy the battery of
Saint-Germain-de-Varreville, secure the route safe the flooded areas along the
coast, capture the bridges on the Douve and the Merderet.
But after two hours
of inaccurate flying, the paratroopers of the 101st are loosened
above Angoville-au-Plain. Five thousand men are lost and scattered in the small
bosket prairies and groves, 20 to 30 km off the rendezvous zones, or drowned in
the swamps. Only 1000 men are left. The 82nd, supposed to land east of the
Merderet, is parcelled out in different pieces, at the west. However, the 3rd
battalion, 505th regiment, lands on the main square and all around
SAINTE-MERE-EGLISE, and takes the city at 4.30 AM. In front of town hall, the
first American flag is raised on a portion of France!! John Steele will confirm
that!
SAINTE-MERE-L’EGLISE, one of the symbols of the June 6 landing, enormously
popularised by the motion picture "The Longest Day". Who doesn't
remember the adventure of John Steel, the American parachutist, who earned
eternal glory by being hooked with his parachute on the bell tower of the
church! For two hours, John Steele hung in the air, dangling helplessly, his
parachute wrapped around the steeple, feigning he was dead before being taken
prisoner. In the town a dummy paratrooper still hangs from the church’s spire
and the landings are commemorated in its stained glass: one of the U.S.
parachutists with the coat of arms, symbol of the Airborne troops, and
saint-Michael, patron of the paratroopers. The other honours the Landing
(probably the only one in the world with a Virgin and Child surrounded by planes
and paratroopers). In front of the hotel de ville, the milestone 00 of Liberty.
Have a look at the famous church (12th and 15th century) and loiter
at the portal. On the capitals you can see sculpted rabbits and foliage.
Archivolts falling on bizarre modillions, almost obscene…one of the figures
(on the right) seems to stand on his testicles! The music-desk, of the 18th
also, is one of the most beautiful of the department.
Nearby the MUSEE DES TROUPES AEROPORTEES (Airborne museum) tel 0233414135 fax
0233417887 works hard to convey to a growing audience that has never known war,
the reality of D-Day. While some museums look more like an army surplus store,
this one can boast both a C47 dropping plane and a fearfully-flimsy WACO glider
with sweet-eyed shop dummies as passengers. Closed
from mid-December to end of January. From Half November to mid December only
open on weekends. The rest of the year open every day.
On the
outskirts of Sainte-Mère –l’Eglise, the MUSEE DE LA FERME DU COTENTIN is
housed in a 17th century ancient farm. It recreates the rural life at
the start of the 19th century. An
exhibition of well-displayed agricultural tools, peasant furniture, and diverse
domestic objects. It offers a useful chance to get inside one of the high
covetable ensemble of stone and slate farmhouse buildings, typical of western
Normandy.
It’s also interesting to move ten miles further north to VALOGNES and its
MUSEE REGIONAL DU CIDRE ET CALVADOS, paying homage to the Norman zeal for
extracting liquids from the apple.
Bibliography
A holiday history of France,
by Ronald Hamilton (London-Hogarth press), Region Normandie, ses merveilles, ses
cicatrices, by Louis Letellier (ed. Cloison, Rouen 1995), Holt’s battle field
guides, Normandy Overlord by Holt, Tonie and Valmai (Sandwich, Kent), La France
des petits chemins: Normandie, by J. de la Valléé (ed. Cité presse, Paris
1998), Six armies in Normandy, by John Keegan, (paperback ed. Pimlico)
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