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Paris-Flea market Saint Ouen
Authentic Paris, more generally speaking, authentic France, is to find nowadays in the flea markets. Collectibles direct from the private owner, without any enhancement, no fixed prices, and bargaining with hand and feet, that's a good sport if you like it. For those going to Paris, winter or summer, loitering through flea markets is an absolute suggestion.
"Vous aimez ça, Madame? Pour vous c'est cent francs. ". And there I stand, with two multi-coloured eggshells from grandma's epoch. "Bargain!", Annie whispers in my ear, so I take the innocent look of the customer not at all interested. With a stunning nonchalance I succeed to make a counter offer. The old, cute and earlier friendly looking man starts to laugh and I feel stupid: maybe my counter offer was too low? He makes another counter offer and I accept quickly, despite the dissatisfied look of my wife, and put the eggshells in her purse.
That sort of plays happens all the time in the three most important flea markets of Paris. Marché aux Puces Saint-Ouen/ Clignancourt, marché aux Puces de Montreuil and marché aux Puces de Vanves.
Be aware that the times when you could find the "bargain" of a lifetime are over, but it gives me (and I suppose you) a happy and full feeling when I stroll along the stands, looking for special knick-knacks.
The most important flea market is the famous "Puces de Saint-Ouen", at the Porte de Clignancourt, north on the 18th arondissement. I think it must be the largest flea market in the world. In fact, this flea market is divided in 7 different markets, which are not all of the same interest. Especially the newer ones with jeans and leather jackets near the metro station -Marché Malik- are not very exciting. But the "Marché Vernaison" is the oldest of them all (1885) and the most charming. Narrow corridors with even narrower, dusty small shops sell a mixture of old and new furniture, knick-knacks and more beautiful French kitsch. In this part of the market lies the famous but not so gastronomic (at all) restaurant Chez Louisette, where Edith Piaf started her career. It's worth a visit only for its colourful, swanky interior. Other advisable sections are the Marchés Paul Bert and Jules Valles. The first one offers a treasure of old domestic tools, the other one is known for its low prices.
For more details on the "Puces of Saint-Ouen" see in "Paris visit"
18th arrondissement.
Paris-Flea market de Montreuil
Paris -Est, at the Porte de Montreuil, lies the Puces de Montreuil. A little less organized and poorer looking than the one of Saint-Ouen. But the multi-coloured stands look more improvised and are not at set up in a logical order.
An old, toothless, little man, hat on his head, sits on a fisher tabouret with his collection of glassware and sends us a friendly smile.. Have a look, there must be something in my items that should please you! And it is very cheap, a give away!". There is indeed a crystal Pernod carafe that I cannot leave behind, I feel I must have it: a pretty decoration for my terrace in summer. The same bargain technique as in Saint-Ouen starts and finally I buy the item almost at the price that the merchant asked, I'm a very poor bargainer, to the desperation of my wife. "Why don't you bargain next time" is my poor defence. "Men have more authority is the unavoidable answer". Women !!J
Most of the merchandises at the Puces de Montreuil are clothing and not so many knick-knacks, like the carafe I managed to find. Especially second hand clothing. Would be buyers gather in front of enormous amounts of rags and clothes and browse with some kind of fanatism in the huge mountains. Looking for that precious and rare item: a forgotten haute couture robe or any other dress. Go on a Monday, since it is the moment they sell the unsold ware of the weekend.
Some tips: Go early and take your time to snoop around - bargaining is evident and do it better than I did. 15% is the usual surplus a merchant adds to his price-take enough cash with you. You ay have a special discount if you show the bills. They hate credit cards- beware of pickpockets!!
Paris-Flea market de Vanves
Puces de Vanves is the smallest of the three major flea markets in Paris, but surely the most agreeable to find pretty and cute knick-knacks. A lot of booths and stands enhance the avenues Marc-Sangier and Georges Lefenestre during the weekend in the 14th arrondissement.
What is so special about this market is that professionals and amateurs work together, stand together without stupid quarrels about licences and more of these official disturbances. The only
 competition is about who shouts the loudest to praise his goods, since lovely collectibles and old house utensils ornate their stalls. The atmosphere on these pieces is very convivial and it's not the persistent odour of fresh pancakes or grilled chestnuts that will disturb you!
Damn, there I see again that I will feel an urge to buy an object. It hit my eyes already, a deep green ashtray in a special, bizarre shape. "Pour vous, c'est cinquante francs!"
Again I think about that one and only word that is to use here: bargain. The show can start again.
For more knowledge about the Vanves
market link to the 14th
arrondissement.
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