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Countless
novels and films have built up Paris image as the capital of romance, an image
that holds true for visitors, but for locals reality fails to live up with the
myth: one in three Parisians lives alone and half the city’s marriages end in
divorce, however it seems to be quite the same in all major western capitals.
It’s hard to be sad in Paris for long, though. Even before the bright lights
of Pigalle and rue Saint-Denis came to Paris, it’s reputation as a good-time
girl stretches back a very long time. Take now Nostradamus, living in the middle
ages, prophet of gloom, who offered the comforting thought that there was one
spot on earth which could be relied on to lift the spirits: “As long as Paris
does not fall, gaiety will exist in the world”, he wrote in the 16th
century.
Parisians as a whole form such a diverse collection of races and cultures that
it is almost impossible to characterize them. Numerous local radio stations
broadcast every day to African, Arab, Portuguese, Spanish listeners. A few years
ago (didn’t hear them lately) there was a radio Nova (101.5 FM), a city most
popular station (started by an Irishman!), sending a wonderful eclectic jumble
of jazz, rap, soul, blues, reggae, African, French and international sounds on
the ether. Mixed culture aside, however, there are some recognisable types.
I described already in a previous essay one of the most characteristic: the BGBG.
For a glimpse of a world that is as removed from that of the BCBG, as it is
possible to get, travel with the RER north from Chatelet with “les
rappeurs”, the second or third generation descendants of African and Caribbean
immigrants. Shaved heads, baseball caps set backwards at
a jaunty angle and “baskets” by Nike or Reebok, names of American basketball
and soccer heroes emblazoned across their chests, the style and philosophy of
“les rappeurs” is directly imported from New York. This American rap, being
very popular, is to be found with a much greater and less censored variety on
these French radios than in New York. Disenchanted with life, which offers few
prospects in the grim housing estates, which ring Paris, “les rappeurs” are
nevertheless gentle and graceful group compared to their more aggressive
American counterparts. In between these groups are the average Parisian ---the
“beaufs” (short for beau-frere or brother in law). A beauf is generally
someone you are associated with by obligation rather than by choice, but good
for a laugh, anyway.
To close this series, a few words about the Asian community. Head
therefore to Belleville in the 20th arrondissement or to Chinatown in
the 13th, which is home for the majority of capital’s 35,000
Vietnamese, Cambodians, Laotians, Chinese and Japanese. Here, green tea,
hundred-year old eggs and dim sum compete for space with the traditional French
baguette and “grand crème”.
Alternatively, for a taste of Africa,
visit the area around the metro Barbes-Rochechouart, Marché Dejean, in the 18th.
Mangoes, yams and plantain spill onto the streets from tiny shops as African
women in bright batik prints, babies slung papoose style around their waists,
sway gracefully among the stalls, picking out salt fish and papaya for the
evening meal.
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Rap, Africans, Asians
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