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As a sort of counter weight
for the busy Ile de le Cité and the right and left bank, the ILE SAINT-LOUIS
can be self supporting, thousands of light years away from the city noises. No
cathedrals, no palaces, no triumphal arches. Just a little church---perfect
example of French religious baroque from the 17th century. On the
others side you have plenty of private homes which mirror their superb facades
in a river, as astonished as we are. It is of course evident that only heavily
filled purses can afford to settle down here, just look at the names of the
quays and you will see what personages lived here in the course of centuries:
the royal and princely Bourbons, the Anjou and the Orleans. Before Michele
Morgan, Georges Pompidou you could stumble upon Voltaire, Aragon, Appollinaire,
Chopin, Theophile Gauthier….
At the corner of the quai d’Anjou and rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, stands the
superb hotel Lambert of which Voltaire, who lived some time in it, said it was
build for “a prince who was a philosopher at the same time”. He probably
pointed to himself when he wrote that ;-). The architect of this hotel
particulier was Louis le Vau who built it between 1640 and 1642. He made also
the blue print for another jewel on this island, hotel Lauzun, 17 quai d’Anjou
where Charles Baudelaire started to write his famous “Fleurs du Mal”. To
visit before anything, because you can still smell and inhale the air that
Victor Hugo inhaled.
Right across the island runs the rue Saint Louis en l’Ile, bordered by
beautiful, mostly 17th century houses. A great part turned into
restaurants, painting galleries and craftsmen shops. The fans of the island fear
already the moment when their oasis will lose its real face.
Like any place, suddenly put under spotlights of fashion, the Ile Saint-Louis is
looted and relooted lately by gluttonous hoards of the artificial tourism, being
just busy to compare Les Baux de Provence to Rocamadour and Rocamadour to
Saint-Paul de Vence. The last resort of these tormented souls is to visit Ile
Saint Louis at the quiet hours of the day and the calm days of the year. If they
still exist……
How many real, genuine and original “Louisiens” are still existing,
convinced islanders, stay at home autochthons who think it over twice before
crossing the water “to go to Paris” and who considered the new inhabitants
of the island as strangers? Are these original islanders still alive, who prefer
the agreeable inconveniences of a simple existence in a simple house to the
one-piece comfort and stereotype advantages of a modern apartment? Better a
hidden staircase than an elevator with aluminium walls. Better the reliable
warmth of burning wood in an open fireplace than artificial timber logs.
Where are the good old times?.......
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