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Place de la Republique-
Canal Saint Martin

Boat ride - Strolling stations around stations and gelleries

Paris-10th arr-Boat ride-Strolling around stations and galleries

 

 

At the marina “basin de l’Arsenal” it is possible to make a very agreeable 3-hour ride on boats, looking like barges, at the rhythm of the canal-locks. "La Guepe buissonniere" and "Le Canotier" depart from the quai Anatole France ( near the pont de la Concorde), tel 0142409697. A departure from the musee d'Orsay every day at 9.30 from end March to mid-November. You can also choose if you want to descend the canal: departure every day from the parc de la Vilette in front of the center "La Folie de Visites Guidees", arrival quai Anatole-France. Better reserve by phone. After your first underground passage described in previous article, you will pass under the  July Column,  the oldest section (1835). The Bastille column was erected to commemorate the victims of the three glorious days of July (July 27-29, 1830). Now comes the "Ecluse du Temple" (double lock)
Named after the old Paris priory of the Order of Templars who were founded in 1128 during a crusade, as reward for services rendered. 
Now the Ecluse des Recollets (double lock) and then the Ourcq Basin
This basin is a meeting place for fishermen; eight different types of fish coming from the Ourcq Canal can be caught here. At this point, the canal goes over about one hundred 8-10m high pillars. Just like the ground under Notre Dame, this part of the canal rests on pillars.
Ecluse des Morts (double lock).Named after a Merovingian necropolis found here from the 4th-5th century, the lock walls are covered with fresh water shellfish very much enjoyed by the ducks. At quai Valmy and quai de Jemappes you emerge again in trees and gardens and yet another unique Paris landscape. Wait patiently at the locks, note how the moss on the canals often hides fresh water mussels. Near the basin de la Vilette the canal divides in to two parts. The canal Saint-Denis and the canal de l’Ourcq, two working waterways. This will be the end of your boat ride. The exploration of this neighborhood will be in the 19th arrondissement.
But let’s get back to the 10th. Follow the canal southwards until the rue des Recollets (do you have your good Paris map with you?). Make a right and soon you’ll see at your right the galls and iron façade of the Gare de l’Est. Via the rue de l’Alsace and rue Dunkerque you arrive at the gare du Nord. In front of the gare the Brasserie Terminus, not bad for its foie gras and seafood.
Take now the very old rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis.  At no.39, the smallest house in Paris: 1m and 1 centimetre facade, one floor, and height 5 meters. The marche du Faubourg-Saint-Denis is a very animated and cosmopolitan market. 
This street is connected to numerous alleyways to the rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin. Passages du Prado, de l’Industrie and Passage Brady that  became a little India, bringing colour to this old, stuffy corridor. Indian and Pakistani grocery shops. it swarms with people during the day. The most diverse shops are lining the street and the gourmet restaurant Julien at no.16 kept its Art Nouveau interior of glass and metal. The same with restaurant Flo in the Cour des Petites Ecuries.  
 At rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis no.54 starts the Passage Reilharc that leads via several inner courtyards to the Boulevard de Strasbourg boulevard built by Haussman to connect the gare du Nord and gare de l’Est with the center of the city.

Bibliography

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 199 --Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997-Cahiers du Cinema, by J.Dutourd (ed. Lageaume 1986)-Le Paris des canaux (brochure Ville de Paris)