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Ghent-The Belfry, Townhall and Saint Nicolas church




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Belfry and Lakenhalle

Just across the porch of Sint-Baafskathedraal, the BELFRY is the fierce symbol of civil power, in opposition to the religious one. Dating from middle 14th century and heavily restored, the viewing point you have from its 91 meters height is overwhelming. Notice the weird elevator, looking like a Jules Verne device ;-), leading you to the top. I advise people suffering from vertigo to abstain looking down. It will not be a Hitchcock movie but reality ;-)
During middle age it symbolized the power of the corporations and today it’s still one of the highest towers in town of which it stays a landmark. The tower is crowned by a gilded copper dragon, dating 1378, which embodies their unyielding spirit and belligerence. The carillon dating 17th century has 53 little clocks. It is considered as one of the most remarkable one in Belgium, the Rolls Royce of the carillons the specialists say. It plays every quarter of the hour and I advise you to wait to see it in action. A carillon player gives often carillon concerts, especially during summer weekends.
The adjoining LAKENHALLE (Cloth Hall), once a show room and warehouse for the internationally known “Flemish Cloth” was built during the 15th century. Also used for arbitrage. Then it lost its function and became an exercise hall for the fencing corporation. When you exit, you will notice at the corner of the Lakenhalle and the Belfry, a building that was used as a prison and surmounted by a very curious fronton, “de Mammelokker”, realized after a Roman legend: the old Cimon, imprisoned and toothless was condemned to starve and his daughter saved his life by giving him her breast milk through the bars. What the love of a daughter for her father could accomplish! ;-)
Next stop, STADHUIS (City hall) on the west side of the Botermarkt was built in different stages, which is clearly to see at the f-different building styles. Ghent wanted to build the biggest City hall of Europe at that time. As it took time 400 years (yes 400) to come to an end they realized a hybrid building. Facing Hoogpoort, the oldest part is flamboyant Gothic  (1518-1520), facing Botermarkt it is Renaissance even if it was built only 20 years later. Baroque and rococo dominate elsewhere. In 1576, the “Pacification of Ghent” was signed in de “Pacificatiezaal”, a treaty which obliged all Low Country provinces to unite against the occupying Spanish troops. It ended like it would end today: it lasted for a few months and the country was again in a bloody and ruthless war, and foe long years to come…..
Today it is the administrative centre of Ghent and is only to be visited with an organized tour. Tel 09/2665232.
The SINT NICOLAASKERK, built on Roman foundations in the 13th century is an example of Scaldian Gothic. Its tower from 1300 was the first belfry of Ghent and still another landmark of the city. Its massive stone aspect is impressive. Also this church had its share of vexations during its existence like being used as horse stables during French revolution. The restoration of the church started in the 60’s is juts finished since last year! These things cost money! Next to KLEIN TURKIJE-named after the guild hall that sold predominantly Turkish herbs and spices-stand a number of splendid town houses such as the 13th century “Red Hat” with its limestone façade and the “Food Merchants home”. Look out for the small shops that were built on the church wall. They sold mainly devotional offerings. Prostitutes used to work in these small houses too.

Bibliography:

Guido Deseyn, “Gids voor Oud-Gent (Antwerpen-Weesp 1984)-Clemens van Trefois, “Ontwikkelingsgeschiedenis van onze landelijke bouwkunst” (Antwerpen 1950),  Gian Giuseppe Simeone, "Les Nouvelles du Patrimoine « Ghent »" (ed.Casterman), Omer Vandeputte "Gids voor Vlaanderen ", (ed.Lannoo), Noortje de Roy van Zuidewyn, « Reishandboek Belgie-Gent » (ed.Elmar 1992)-Patricia Carson, « The Fair face of Flanders » (1969)