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Monaco, a police state?
Monaco
geographic and history
Visiting Monaco-the
Palace-the Cathedral and princess Grace
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Next to the parking garage,
at the south end of the rock, lays the pretty Saint-Martin gardens, with
tropical plants and statues. Tiers of Aleppo pines and yellow agaves wind around
the headland. One of the statues represent Albert the 1st, a great
sea lover, founder of the MUSEE OCEANOGRAPHIQUE with its world famous aquarium,
opened in 1910. The edifice has already an impressive allure: 100.000 tons of
freestone from La Turbie dominating the sea at an altitude of 85 meters.....
Jacques Cousteau, the famous
deep sea researcher, movie director and commander of the scientific search ship
Calypso was director of this museum from 1957 until 1988.The visit is not cheap,
but it is worth the money. The Monegasques say that it is the most famous and
surely the most important museum of that kind. Even if fish are not your cup of
tea, you should do the visit, some fish are stupefying!
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Entrance musee oceanographique |
Start at the aquarium in the
basement. My first visit left me breathless but last year I was a bit
disappointed by the less clear indications of the aquariums and the general
negligence I noticed about maintenance. I hope the management will take this
into consideration. The first you see, entering the aquarium is the
shoal of little sharks, the filefish, blue with orange stains. The aquarium is a
surreal home to a lot of weird species: secretive crabs hide in sponges clutched
in their back legs, Bernard L'Hermite fish travel with a sea
anemone permanently lodged on his back, thousands of fauna and aquatic flora specimen swim
around in 90 basins, directly alimented with seawater. Chequered or sickle formed fishes
swim around and you will wonder how
rockfish, horrid specimens, looking like space aliens, can be so poisonous! The
noble female octopus waits weeks for her eggs to hatch on their tentacles and as
soon as her offspring are born, she dies, exhausted! Try to find the
razor-fish, shaped as a blade but not anymore in the water trunk it was supposed
to be. You will discover If
you’re lucky, have patience to discover them, find the butterfly fish, the
cowfish or even better, the "balance" with his punk headdress. In
another aquarium, a cross-bowman stares at you, while a blue triggerfish shows
you his orange teeth! Don't miss the scorpion fish, the narwhal and the
abominable pustulous rascasse. The most astonishing maybe
is the plaice. Try to find her, should be in aquarium C13…..This flat fish,
almost like a chameleon,
hides in the sand before jumping on his
prey. One of the most startling sights is not a fish but a model of a live coral
reef taken from the waters off Djibouti. The
researchers of the museum succeeded to acclimate the device by creating a
complete autonomic eco-system: a premiere in the history of aquariophily. I
thank the “Guides du Routard” to have indicated me all these fishes, or else
I would have missed most of them. It is a sobering thought that every morning
the aquarium occupants devour over 4,000 kg of mussels, sardines, seafood cocktail
and spinach.
I must say that during my
last visit I was touched by the care with which all these fishes and also the
slowly shuffling, breathless, open-mouthed visitors are surrounded. It
was heart-warming and looked a bit like the living rooms of our grand-grand
parents, stuffed with green and other things
Bibliography:
Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur.
Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982) Stephen
Liegeard, "La Cote d'Azur (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988), Patrick Howarth, “When
the Riviera was ours” (Century, London 1977), Michel de la Torre,
Alpes-Maritimes 06 (ed.Nathan, later Deslogis-Lacoste), Pemble.J., “The
Mediterranean Passion” (ed.Oxford University Press 1988)”, V.Van Hulst
“The Rock at the sea”, (ed.Casterman 1998),”Guides du Routard, Cote
d’Azur 1999” (ed.Hachette)
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Visiting
Monaco-the Musee Oceanographique
Visiting Monte
Carlo-Casino-Hotel de Paris-Jardin Exotique
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