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A not so kind introduction
Ancient
history and
musée de l'Annonciade
Modern
history and stars
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Up
to the beaches now!
West of town centre is plage BOUILLABAISSE, coming back into trend after years
of declining. It’s a simple local beach, more favourite to the native St.
Tropeziens.
The PLAGE DES GRANIERS is the nearest to the cemetery. JUST BELOW THE Citadel. A little
further the baie des Canebiers
attracts also the same crowds, but has a few creeks.
The plage des CANEBIERS is slightly larger and overlooked by Brigitte Bardot’s
villa, La Madrague. The eastern edge of the peninsula is the plage des Salins, 4
km east. Empty in low season.
But
where the real action is taking place is the PLAGE DE PAMPELONNE, a long golden
sweep with concessions. From north to south we have:
Tropezina, Tabou-plage, Tahiti plage which is a long established showbiz
favourite including a hotel and shops, Bora Bora and the very chic Moorea, La
Voile Rouge home of the topless nymphets and a rock-star Hollywood ambience, the
new Sun 77 with its teenage offshoot Hysteria, the quiet Force 7 and the Club du
Planteur, the naturist Le Blouch, Club 55 (the oldest founded in 1955 by the Colmont family),
Nioulargo with it’s traditional Indo-Chinese restaurants, La Plage des Jumeaux
noted for excellent Provencal cuisine, fashionable Epi Plage, La Cabane Bambou,
Tropicana, another showbiz favourite with excellent local cooking and La Bastide
Blanche which is accessible only by boat and therefore relatively quiet and
exclusive.
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Beach dining |
More south, and with much less people is the plage de l'Escalet. Small sand
stripes alternate with creeks. Still more south, at the cap Taillat is
a well-known beach to the initiated Tropezians: la plage de la Bastide-Blanche.
At the end of a bad road, make an effort, and you will be rewarded. Or leave
your car at the Escalet beach and walk the 30 minutes path to the other beach.
At anchor off the shore of Pampelonne are the dozens of yachts and
smaller craft used
for the very Tropezien snobbish custom of sailing out for lunch to yet another
exclusive restaurant like the mas du Langoustier on the island of Porquerolles.
And what about nightlife? Around midnight, queues start to form outside
St.Tropez nightclubs, which range from the exclusive and glamorous Caves du Roy
at the hotel Byblos, with its ancient Egyptian theme décor, and the classic
1960s favourite Papagayo, to the Pirate’s Studio, a sort of VIP French Karaoke
joint, and Le Bal, a favourite on the gay and supermodel circuit.
After a heavy night at one of these establishments, it is worth remembering that
the most revivifying of hangover cures is a gentle sea excursion, and not only
available for the oat owners. Indeed, regular ferries that leave the old port
for Port Grimaud, Ste Maxime and St. Raphael offer a delightful and relaxing run
across the bay.
Bibliography:
Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and
Hudson, London 1982), Stephen Liégeard, "La Cote d'Azur" (Ed.Serre,
Nice 1988 a reprint), " Roman remains of southern France ", by James
Bromwich (Routledge London 1993, "Guide du Routard
1999",(ed.Hachette), "Dorpjes rond het St.Tropez schiereiland",
by J. Helperszoon (Alk 1996), Calvin Tomkins, “Living well is the best
revenge” (E.P.Dutton)-“Les Pointillistes en Méditerrannée”, by
Ger.Dumortier ed. Livres
Bruxelles 1998), “St. Tropez baai and hinterland », by Joop van
Nieuwenhuizen (ed. Hansma, Maastricht 1995)
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A
charming walk through
the city
Up
to the beaches
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