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A not so kind introduction
Ancient
history and
musée de l'Annonciade
Modern
history and stars
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Like I emphasized in my
previously, Saint-Trop' reveals, when its tourist hordes are gone, many
charming secrets: medieval streets, 19th century Italian baroque parish
church, the Chapelle de la Misericorde with its typical wrought iron
campanile, lovely narrow stone streets, of which some surprisingly calm and
unspoilt, even in August, its arcades and narrow passages eaten by the vegetation, secret gardens,
poetic little squares with gurgling antique fountains , its little fishers port
where the still remaining corps of Tropezien fishermen keep their boats and in a
few cases they sell their catch fresh from
small garage stalls, etc....
The ancient area of La Ponche can be reached through the 15th
century stone Revelen gate-tower. Nearby is the charming medium-priced hotel de
la Ponche with its popular terrace restaurant and around the corner the
similarly elegant Yaca hotel with a lovely ivy-surrounded central pool and
patio. Rue
Allard, a lot of houses show picturesque details like the " Maison du
Maure" with his Barbaresque head wearing a turban. And what about the so cute
little "place
des Herbes" with its morning vegetable, fruit, flower and fish market? Will
it ever change? 
Best of all, though, is the general effect of little streets, warm pastel walls
enlivened by flowerpots and glimpses of oleander or bougainvillea peeking from
walled gardens.
If the quay side cafés are St. Tropez supreme breakfast and coffee haunts, they
are rivalled in the –evening by the cafés on the place des Lices, five
minutes walk away. It is certainly the most famous
square in Saint Tropez. In old times it was here that jousts took place. Today
it has a very animated market on Tuesday and Saturday morning. Under the five
rows of big plane trees, illuminated by long strips of light bulbs, hundreds of
people play " boule ", in the traditional way of old retired fishermen,
but now more by celebrity teams hosted by the famous Eddie Barclay and his
set , while the "Cafe des
Arts" is crammed. This café, the must of the musts is the pace TO SEE AND BE SEEN!!
This is the night centre time of the
Harley-Davidson cult still led by Johnnie Halliday. Notice also the terraces of
the Brasserie de la Renaissance, successfully relaunched lately.
But
let's continue. Ten minutes from the centre, overlooking the whole bay from its
grassy, pine-dotted hillock, the 16th-17th century Citadelle gives
you the opportunity of the best view on the forest of the tiled roofs of
St.Trop' from its ramparts. Surrounded by an extensive wall and dry moat,
patrolled by peacocks it houses also the Maritime museum. It displays torpedoes,
maps, uniforms and guns relating to the 1943-45 Resistance and Liberation.
Descend to the sea and pay a visit to the picturesque " cimetiere
marin" (marine cemetery), really merging with the sea waves. I know just
one other so authentic "sea cemetery" and that's the one in Bonifacio
(Corsica).
Next essay we move to the St. Tropez beaches!
Bibliography:
Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and
Hudson, London 1982), Stephen Liégeard, "La Cote d'Azur" (Ed.Serre,
Nice 1988 a reprint), " Roman remains of southern France ", by James
Bromwich (Routledge London 1993, "Guide du Routard
1999",(ed.Hachette), "Dorpjes rond het St.Tropez schiereiland",
by J. Helperszoon (Alk 1996), Calvin Tomkins, “Living well is the best
revenge” (E.P.Dutton)-“Les Pointillistes en Méditerrannée”, by
Ger.Dumortier ed. Livres
Bruxelles 1998), “St. Tropez baai and hinterland », by Joop van
Nieuwenhuizen (ed. Hansma, Maastricht 1995)
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A
charming walk through
the city
Up
to the beaches
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