Site Home - What's New? -Feedback - About Jack-  Travel/Art Links

Cote d'Azur

 

Saint Tropez-A charming walk through te city

restaurant recommendations

hotel recommendations



Back to Saint Tropez contents

 

 

A not so kind introduction

 

 

Ancient history and
musée de l'Annonciade

 

 

Modern history and stars

 

 

 

 

Like I emphasized in my previously, Saint-Trop' reveals, when its tourist hordes are gone, many charming secrets: medieval streets, 19th century Italian baroque parish church,  the Chapelle de la Misericorde with its typical wrought iron campanile, lovely narrow stone streets, of which some surprisingly calm and unspoilt, even in August, its arcades and narrow passages eaten by the vegetation, secret gardens, poetic little squares with gurgling  antique fountains , its little fishers port where the still remaining corps of Tropezien fishermen keep their boats and in a few cases they sell their catch fresh  from small garage stalls, etc....
The ancient area of La Ponche can be reached through the 15th century stone Revelen gate-tower. Nearby is the charming medium-priced hotel de la Ponche with its popular terrace restaurant and around the corner the similarly elegant Yaca hotel with a lovely ivy-surrounded central pool and patio.  Rue Allard, a lot of houses show picturesque details like the " Maison du Maure" with his Barbaresque head wearing a turban. And what about the so cute little "place des Herbes" with its morning vegetable, fruit, flower and fish market? Will it ever change?
Best of all, though, is the general effect of little streets, warm pastel walls enlivened by flowerpots and glimpses of oleander or bougainvillea peeking from walled gardens.
If the quay side cafés are St. Tropez supreme breakfast and coffee haunts, they are rivalled in the –evening by the cafés on the place des Lices, five minutes walk away. It is certainly the most famous square in Saint Tropez. In old times it was here that jousts took place. Today it has a very animated market on Tuesday and Saturday morning. Under the five rows of big plane trees, illuminated by long strips of light bulbs, hundreds of people play " boule ", in the traditional way of old retired fishermen, but now more by celebrity teams  hosted by the famous Eddie Barclay and his set  , while the "Cafe des Arts" is crammed. This café, the must of the musts is the pace TO SEE AND BE SEEN!!  
This is the night centre time of the Harley-Davidson cult still led by Johnnie Halliday. Notice also the terraces of the Brasserie de la Renaissance, successfully relaunched lately.
But let's continue. Ten minutes from the centre, overlooking the whole bay from its grassy, pine-dotted hillock, the 16th-17th century Citadelle gives you the opportunity of the best view on the forest of the tiled roofs of St.Trop' from its ramparts. Surrounded by an extensive wall and dry moat, patrolled by peacocks it houses also the Maritime museum. It displays torpedoes, maps, uniforms and guns relating to the 1943-45 Resistance and Liberation. Descend to the sea and pay a visit to the picturesque " cimetiere marin" (marine cemetery), really merging with the sea waves. I know just one other so authentic "sea cemetery" and that's the one in Bonifacio (Corsica). 
Next essay we move to the St. Tropez beaches!

Bibliography: 

Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982), Stephen Liégeard, "La Cote d'Azur" (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988 a reprint), " Roman remains of southern France ", by James Bromwich (Routledge London 1993, "Guide du Routard 1999",(ed.Hachette), "Dorpjes rond het St.Tropez schiereiland", by J. Helperszoon (Alk 1996), Calvin Tomkins, “Living well is the best revenge” (E.P.Dutton)-“Les Pointillistes en Méditerrannée”, by Ger.Dumortier ed. Livres Bruxelles 1998), “St. Tropez baai and hinterland », by Joop van Nieuwenhuizen (ed. Hansma, Maastricht 1995)



Back to Cote d'Azur contents

 

 

A charming walk through
the city

 

 

Up to the beaches