Paris main visit page 2

History and scandals

Cité and musée de la Musique, a must!!!

Cite des Sciences et d'Industrie

Parc de la Villette

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Mouzaia quarter-Picturesque village in heart Paris

Paris-19th arr -Parc des Buttes Chaumont 

Paris, a sea of 19th century houses. Nevertheless the city counts more than 340 parks or woods. One of the most beautiful is the PARC DES BUTTES CHAUMONT, here in the 19th arrondissement (entrance rue Botzaris, rue Crimée) in the north.
Since Napoleon III gave Haussman the assignment to put a “green lung” for the workmen in this area, there is nothing more left from the bold hillock that used to be here. The park, 25 hectares, received a maze of trails and paths of a length of 5 km. They all lead to an artificial lake (where you can row), with in the middle a rocky island of 50 meters height with on its top the “Sybille-Temple” from where you have a wonderful view on Montmartre. Two bridges give you access to the island and the “Chemin des Aiguilles”, 220 steps carved into the rock give you the possibility to climb to the top. Aragon was enthusiastic about this park in his outburst: “Jardins, vous etes les femmes de l’esprit!!”.
Notice the old roller skate track surrounded by an iron ramp, from the times that children behaved properly and leisure was codified!! ;-)
At the east side of the lake there is another grotto, 15 meters deep with an artificial waterfall. It’s here that gyps were found beginning 19th century. Next to the gate of the main entrance, facing the west shore of the lake you can see a map with information about the exotic plants in the park. Open air performances of the puppet theatre, across the entrance are especially popular with the young children. They are in action from spring to fall, depending on the weather. When the sun shines, the 18 benches are packed. During the summer you can enjoy concerts given in a small music pavilion. And after that you can savour some dish in the beautiful restaurant La Puebla.
Now I’m going to take you on a very special and rare tour. You must know that there still are in Paris oases of greenery that have resisted the stress and attraction of concrete and high rise. Those who don’t believe me should go and have a walk in this underestimated part of the capital. Don’t expect grandiose monuments, photographed on all sides by hoards of tourists. No particular impressive and spectacular architectures, but some beautiful, unexpected secret gardens with adorable small houses, pavilions, all covered by ivy. Except the local inhabitants you will only encounter some groups lead by a French guide, specialize in these unusual visits. But no English speaking! These guides are usually old retired university professors who discovered this area also. By the way, it is by taking such a tour a few years ago that I discovered the area of the MOUZAIA, where I will lead you in my next article.

Bibliography

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 1997--Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997 --Paris 19eme siecle, l'immeuble et la rue, by F.Loyer, ed.Hazan, 1994- Paris inconnu, quartiers tranquilles, by B.Beyern (own folder)