Paris main visit page 2

Introduction et Grands Boulevards

Opera Garnier

Department stores
Galeries Lafayette
Galeries du Printemps

Nouvelle Athenes

Paris-9th arrondissement-Department stores-Galeries Lafayette-Galeries du Printemps

We just left the Opera and start our walk in the 9th arrondissement. Just across the street is the Grand Hotel and its world known side walk café “Café de la Paix”. Very expensive drinks, but the place to be seen. If you care to sit down and enjoy the view of tourists and passing traffic, don’t be in a hurry. It’s La Paix here, which means peace. And the consumption prices will force you to enjoy as long as possible your table ;-). Now let‘s head for “Les Grands Magasins”. Walk to the Boulevard Haussman along the super known department stores Galleries du Printemps and galleries Lafayette. They offer a tantalizing array of fashion and accessories in an atmosphere of 19th century elegance. If you are short on time or just want to get which designers will appeal to you, these department stores a good way to get an overview. Printemps recently renewed cosmetics department as is Galeries Lafayette amazing lingerie department Who never dreamed in front of the Christmas shop-windows, the rabbit class room or the bears dance? The history of the stores goes back to mid 19th century and has been popular ever since. Printemps in 1869 and Lafayette in 1894 have still their richly, original decorated front facades. You can buy anything, from elegant “prêt-a-porter” mode to exclusive fabrics, lingerie, splendid porcelains, expensive tapestries, perfumes and beautiful presents.

Let’s first detail the GALLERIES LAFAYETTE. Orient yourself by heading for the central escalators and a store directory ion many languages. The famous interior contains a 75 feet high Art Nouveau central hall with multi-storey galleries, wrought-iron foliage decoration as well as an enormous dome of coloured glass. The galleries are supposed to have the “largest perfumery in the world” and the highest turnover on a square meter. An anecdote: In 1919 Jules Vedrines, an aviator, succeeds to land on the roof of the Galleries Lafayette with an aeroplane.
Another block down is the GRANDS MAGASINS DU PRINTEMPS, which advertises itself as the “most Parisian department store”. An attractive gold and green mosaic façade.  Unfortunately, I would say criminal alterations destroyed the magnificent central stairs of Le Printemps, and the same happened later to the staircase of the galeries Lafayette..  All that remains of its former interior layout in  Printemps is the domed ceiling, a Jugendstil cupola built in 1923 and classed now as historic monument. The store also has a lot to offer with perfumes, ‘there are make-up demonstrations and fashion shows almost every day, mode, furnishing and utensils to keep a household. After intensive shopping you can take a rest in the upper level café-restaurant of the Printemps. 
Let’s continue to the rue Mogador, the rue de Provence, the rue de Caumartin and the rue Saint-Lazare. The numerous cheap looking, grubby, dingy little shops give us the impression walking in a wasteland neighbourhood…..this is another aspect of the 9th arrondissement. At the Eglise de la Trinite (1861-1867) another interesting part of the 9th begins: LA NOUVELLE ATHENES: a very little known artists area, easily to explore by foot.

Bibliography

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 1997--Histoire et dictionnaire de Paris, by A.Fierro, ed.Laffont, 1996--Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997--Naissance de Paris, by M.Fleury, ed.Imprimerie Nationale 1997--Paris 19eme siecle, l'immeuble et la rue, by F.Loyer, ed.Hazan, 1994-