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Opera Garnier

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Paris-9th arrondissement-Opera Garnier, history and anecdotes

“This, Madame, is the Napoleon III style”, says a legend affirming this is what Baron Haussman told empress Eugenie when he presented the project for the new opera after she made him the remark that she saw no Greek or Louis XVI style in the building. In fact, she thought the whole plan was worthless…

Today, the Opera Garnier is as impressive as when it opened in 1875. The hexagon formed by the adjoining streets with the place the l’Opera, avenue de l’Opera leading to the Louvre and the Comedie Française was the ultimate high-minded of the “urbanist” baron Haussman.
Let’s start with the Opera Garnier. One advice from the guide du Routard:(quote) come between 1pm and 2pm to have a chance to visit the Opera inside, where the highlight of the visit is the view of the ceiling painted by Chagall. There are often rehearsals that prevent the access. At lunchtime the young ballet-girls leave the stage. If you arrive after 2pm, inform before you buy a ticket if the ceiling is visible. (unquote)

Built in 1862, at the same time than the Haussmann’s works, it was only  dedicated in 1875 by Mac-Mahon for Napoléon III. It has been in 1875. It’s one of the bigger theaters of the world : 172 meters of length, 101 of width and 79 of height. The architect, Charles Garnier, used various materials to build it : stone, marble, bronze. In front of the entrance stands a reproduction of Carpeaux’ sculpture called « La Danse ». Inside the monument, three elements are worth seeing : the Great Staircase in white marble with a red and green marbled balustrade, the Main Foyer with its mosaic ceiling, the auditorium where Chagall has decorated the false ceiling in 1964.(see below)
Despite the total surface is 11,000 square meters, there is only room for 2130 spectators and 450 actors on the stage. The breathtaking crystal chandelier weighs six tons! The original painted (Day and Night by Lenepveu) ceiling was over painted in 1964 by Marc Chagall with a 220 square meter work.  

monumental staircase	inside and Chagall ceiling

Outside, the main façade is composed of a series of arcades at ground level and the high colonnades of the main storey, and towering above them, the crown-like dome of the auditorium. Enormous sculptured groups  (allegories of music, lyric poetry and dance, this one being a copy by the sculptor Belmondo, yes, the father, of the original of Carpeaux, today in the Orsay museum) adorn the front and the corners of the façade. High up medallions contain the likenesses of famous composers.
Some anecdotes to finish: nevertheless his serious side, the Opera has his little pack of fantasy. The Opera is built on an underground river, feeding still today another underground lake.  It was used to drain the waters under the Opera and to stabilize the building.  This famous underground lake exists really despite denegation of people who claim they never could see it. Of course you cannot visit the underground lake! Maybe you could meet the Phantom of the Opera and God knows what would happen.
Today the opera Garnier is only used for ballet performances and an occasional operetta.
Next article leads us to the shopping area. Ladies, be prepared!

Bibliography:

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris,     ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 1997--Histoire et dictionnaire de Paris, by A.Fierro, ed.Laffont, 1996--Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997--Naissance de Paris, by M.Fleury, ed.Imprimerie Nationale 1997--Paris 19eme siecle, l'immeuble et la rue, by F.Loyer, ed.Hazan, 1994—Garnier, vie et œuvres, by P.Gaxotte ed. Rencontre.