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Going out to lunch or dinner
in Nice is different from the rest of France. It is quite evident that Nice has
more resemblance to Genoa or Turin than Paris. Even the spoken language
doesn’t sound anything French. France’s influence seems to be blocked behind
the Var river, as well as it cuisine. Even in the most exquisite and exclusive
restaurants the authentic, own Nicoise dishes are on the menu. A lot of pasta
(especially ravioli), fish soup, sea fish in fennel and the famous “petits farçis
Niçois”, stuffed vegetables of the region. The fact that Nice’s cuisine
doesn’t admit the superiority of traditional French cuisine is one of the main
reasons why French bourgeoisie prefers to stay at the other side of the VAR.
Generally, the hot-spots in Nice have no glass cases or terraces. The guests
withdraw in discreet (and cool) establishments, often very exotic.
Add 20% to the restaurant
prices
Brasserie
Flo, 4 rue Sacha Guitry tel 0193133838 fax 0493133839 Parking:
Massena
Flo is probably the most French restaurant in Nice. Has a cute fin de siècle
character, totally built in the Parisian brasserie style. From far it looks like
a surrealistic space-launching laboratory with the spectacle of running waiters,
cooks, obers, helps. The clientele is very varied from old gastronomes, dynamic
businessmen, celebrating families, expensive
hotel guests and “flamboyant" representatives of
Nice by night. Culinary wise, Flo is a master of presenting high-varied seafood
platters of outstanding quality and freshness. You can order also the most
diverse dishes so hat price scan be get into control. A menu costs 32 €. Specialties of the house: loup flambé au fenouil, filet de dorade en ocotte
and joue de lotte au psitou. Flo has also the « Nordic “ plates
like foie gras maison, Chateaubriand béarnaise and the tradition Alsace
choucroute. Staff is attentive but in an old fashioned way, too informal.
April,
22 ter, rue de France/Place Croix de Marbre tel 0493822606 fax 0493815173
Parking : rue du Congrès.

In
a very neat pedestrian shopping zone, this small, light restaurant was opened in
summer 199 under the name April, nobody knows why. Space is small, but that
gives it its intimacy and when weather is fine it ahs 16 outside seats. Ambience
is quiet and amusing. Because the ambience is so light you could think the food
consists just of a few light snacks. Nothing is less true! The dishes are
refined and original, prepared with care and love. Far out one of the best
ratios quality/price in the far neighbourhood. Crate changes every three months.
Very fresh fromage de brebis au mesclun with olive oil. The “accras de
morue” is a Martinique dish, very witty but like beignets. Another specialty
is the “jambon ibero and toast catalan”. A sublime toast with ham and
tomatoe. Main dishes are also very original. Sashimi de saumon (11.50 €), very light
and completely Montignac, like the sardines au concassé de tomates crues (9.90 €) and the magret de canard à l’échalote grise
(15.75 €) melting on your
tongue! The ingredients are of an excellent quality and so fresh that even a
mashed potato is a treat! Entrees cost about 7 €, desserts (like the terrine
de Roquefort d’April, truffe au chocolat noir or a very special tarte Tatin, 5
€.
For lunch you have a formula, two courses for 13.50 €
where the client can choose
between an appetizer and a dessert.
It would be very smart to book far in advance. The place is so small!
Restaurant
Simon, 182 avenue Rimiez tel 0493844061

In Aire St.Michel, along a road
leading to the backcountry villages, high up in Cimiez lies this very unique
place, RESTAURANT SIMON. The journey alone is worth the trip. This place,
already a restaurant from BEFORE the French revolution is now the seventh
generation that puts genuine and authentic Nice cuisine
on the table. Ravioli is made from a very old family recipe, specialty of the
house, and not to be compared with Italian ravioli, no Sir!! The ravioli is
super delicious, I tasted it. Stuffed with a sort of cooked meat en not to be
compared at all, taste wise, with Italian ravioli (bis)
Here, it’s obvious that the cuisine Nicoise is a cuisine “à part”. Only
Nice specialties on the carte, like “stockfish”, a local delicatesse, rabbit
stew and
“carré d’agneau”, different here from all you ate already before.
Simon’s desserts are a landmark in the neighbourhood! St.
Honoré fait maison, charlotte au maron. Customers here are a hearty
local residents clientele, older ladies with their pets and older gentlemen
still jumping out of their chair when their female companion stands up. Closed
on Wednesdays and between November to March only open for lunch.
La
Merenda, 4 rue de la Terrasse, NO PHONE.
parking : hotel de ville, cours Saleya.
A tiny, tiny small street
between boulevard Jean Jaures and quai des Etats-Unis, that’s where the
Merenda is hidden? This mini restaurant is so well concealed that you can pass a
few times in front of it without noticing. And that’s precisely the intention of its owner, Dominique Le Stanc,
after having been for 8 years the second chef at the Michelin two-starred “Chantecler”. Now he is cooking for people he can see enjoying his
food. He
will not change the formula of his restaurant, that’s for sure. And that’s
why we have the privilege to have a “grand cuisinier” behind the furnace
preparing the most delicious coppa, andouillette, pates au pistou, stockfish
with young olive oil, daube de boeuf à la Provencale, tripes à la Nicoise,
lentilles saucisse, tête de veau etc…Authentic Niçois cuisine…All these
prepared daily from fresh market products and written on a small blackboard.
He keeps
telephone out of his restaurant at all costs (and this goes for mobile phones
too).
“Thirty years that the place has no phone” he told me, “and if that
bothers someone, let him go and eat elsewhere”. What a character! ;-). Anyway,
it is impossible to reserve “We are too small for that”, adds Le Stanc. He
wants to keep the atmosphere “homey and convivial” and that results that
intellectuals or people from the cultural scene knowing the place since 30
years, are queuing patiently or waiting their turn by having a drink in one of
the neighbouring cafes until there is a free table.
Without exaggeration, La Merenda is one of the cutest and most convivial
restaurants of the Cote d’Azur and if the price is certainly not a bother: for
29.50 € you get the whole evening.
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