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COTE D'AZUR-NICE-A view from the Chateau

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A view from the Chateau

 

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Old town

An excellent way to see Nice is to take a ride in the "Petit train" and to drivearound in town. It starts at the foot of the Jardin Albert I and climbs all the way to the chateau, a spot, where each visit to Nice should (in fact) begin! 

Baie de Nice by Matisse

If you ever were in Rome and stayed on the "Pincio", you can compare: hightrees, small rock sections and waterfalls, stone benches under the greenery and the reward at the top with its dressed tables and a cool and fresh glass of white wine. A lot of mothers come here to see their children try their first steps and large families, who queue, chatting  under the trees, for lunch. In the summer, when it's very hot, the heat is much more bearable up here than in town, during the springtime, the birds sing until exhaustion and in the winter, it is serene and quiet. Nice is at our feet. This is the right place to observe some particularities about this extrovert and so secretive Paris-at-the Cote-d'Azur.
From here you see clearly that Nice airport is totally built on the sea. Who remembers the collapse of a part of the runway in 1980 ?? The Dutch contractor (Boskalis), hired by Jacques Medecin had warned that the project was not safe since the bottom of the sea at that place was too weak and disapproved the plans. But they didn't know the typical brutal ways of Mayor Jacques Medecin, who, once he had his idea, never changed his mind. The investigations for the people responsible for the catastrophe disappeared of course in a forgotten drawer. From our viewing spot we see also the hilltops at the horizon, who protects the city of the northern winds, we see how old town, with its medieval street layout, is separated from new town by a green boulevard with the Congress Palace "Acropolis" and the Musee d'Art Contemporain. All this is also the initiative of Jacques Medecin.
From our hilltop we recognize the Italian style of the city, which lasted for five centuries, in the street plan of Nice. Typical example is the Place Massena at the border of the boulevards, built over the river Paillon. The place Massena is surrounded by magnificent red ocher facades, and looks like a northern Italian city. But people who know Nice very well, swear solemnly that Nice is in fact much less "Italian" as you it looks visually. After all, they speak the "langue d'oc" and marriages are much more celebrated in the Provencal back country than in Italy. Nevertheless, the popular admiration of local people is indestructible in front of an 'Italianizing" gentleman crook like Jacques Medecin. The reason? Because Nice, like we see it today, in all its progressive cheerfulness, is the work of Medecin. Take now only the old Nice, magically transformed from a maze of slovenly alleys to a feast of cool ocher streets, full of shops and restaurants. A part of this miracle is the restoration of the old flower market, the COURS SALEYA, now totally surrounded by restaurants and terraces.
The fact that Nice looks today as a perfect running " housing machine", is thanks to Jacques Medecin's father, Jean . The extreme right wing "Front National" takes now slowly the power after the fall of the Medecins as if it were a normal thing to do, while the Nice inhabitants still cry over their lost mayor. Despite Medecin called himself " partyless", he was also extreme right. For the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, Nice didn't participate to the festivities. Medecin, spokesman for his city, said: "During the revolution we were not part of France. So this anniversary doesn't concern us at all."

Bibliography:  

John Pemble, "the Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the South", (Oxford University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982) Stephen Liegeard, "La Cote d'Azur (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988), Georges Poujouly,"Nice, une ville méconnue" (ed.Frontieres, Grasse)

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Promenade des Anglais

 

Cimiez walk - Musee Matisse

 

Musee Chagall - Museum
of Contemporary Art