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Small but well frequented places, there are plenty of them in Paris. You just have to know the genuine ones and avoid the alluring traps. Hop in if you feel a sudden hunger but don't be surprised or disappointed if the place is full. Some need reservation.
A special thanks and mention for Josée Valzer who helped me a lot to some addresses in Saint-Germain.
The "Petit Saint-Benoit", 4 rue Saint-Benoit tel 0142602792, serves a great "hachis parmentier" but its reputation of house wine is a little bit exaggerated. But people return.
In the "Bistro de la
Grille", 14 rue Mabillon tel 0143541687 is worth a try for its souris de gigot d'agneau confite. The ambience is terrific and the owner, Daniel Vermot, adores telling all about his friends, life and Saint-Germain.
That's what is missing at the "Aux Charpentiers", next door, at no.10, tel 0143263005: a little exciting ambience. But the traditional food is good. Prefer sitting in the basement to have a view of the courtyard, very cute.
A few steps from the very busy carrefour de l'Odéon, meet one of the most agreeable terraces of Paris:
"Marco Polo", 8 rue de Condé tel 0143267963, who had Marcello Mastroianni as a client for a long time. The carte is very small but changes every day.
For a little hunger, without surprises, nothing out of the freezer, ignoring moroseness but a fresh and cuisine du marché, sunny tapas and all that for less than 100 FF? That's
"Charly", 7 rue Lobineau tel 0140460688 or next door
"Au Petit Vatel", 5 rue de Lobineau tel 0143542849.
If " Alfred Positano
", 9 rue Guisarde, tel 0143269052, has the right formula for you, and that's an Italian style brasserie, please reserve in advance. It's prudent since the place has a tremendous success. Josée recommends the antipasti plate and the different fish.
The best surprises in the 6th are the "Restaurant
et le Relais des Beaux-Arts", in rue Mazarine no. 80 and 76, tel 0146332073 and 0143259356. It changed owner a few months ago and is now the domain of Alain Robineau, former chef of the Auberge Bressane. Elegant simplicity of the carte, where the subtle filet mignon or the veal liver à la grenadine (it melts in the mouth) and the crème brulée à la catalane are a must. Fabulous wine carte: certain are sold at cost price like the Chateau Lalande de Borie, Saint-Julien 1986!! Or the house wine for 25 FF per glass.
No need to waste your time at the much-overrated "Alcazar", rue Mazarine also. Noisy, nor good or bad, without great interest. Maybe at night, for a small snack at the bar. The place is pretty. But take a megaphone with you! :-)
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