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Avignon-Off beaten path walk (2)



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Palais des
Papes to Rocher des Dombs

 

Off beaten walk 1

 

Off beaten walk 2

 


 

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The rue des Teinturiers takes its name from the manufactures of "indiennes", the famous Provencal fabrics, printed cotton cloths , the same that are still produced today by companies like "Souleiado" in Tarascon. This industry developed here because the fabrics could be washed in the clear waters of the running Sorgue . The highlight of the "indienne" production  was in 1734 when there were about 500 people involved. Production was stopped end 19th century when the demand for this kind of fabrics lowered almost to nothing. This rue des Teinturiers makes me think of certain parts of Brugge in Belgium: the streets are paved by small, roundish stones, the houses are low and we hear the incessant gurgling and murmuring of the Sorgue, suddenly appearing out of a tunnel.  There is even a paddle-wheel.

Rue des Teinturiers

Let's get back to more culture and visit the Musee Calvet, rue Joseph Vernet, a superb building of the 18th century. Why called Calvet? Because it was the name  of the founder and the first big donator.  The antique dealer Marcel Puech is responsible for the nice collection of modern and contemporary art. I hope the prehistoric archeology section is up now, it wasn't the last time visited. 
The Fondation Angladon-Dubrujeaud, 5 rue du Laboureur, is a must for the Impressionist painting amateurs. The collection is presented in their own ancient hotel particulier and has paintings of Derain, Sisley, Picasso, Foujita....
And don't forget the only historical classified monument hat-maker in France: la Chapellerie Mouret, 20 rue des Marchands. 
And finally, before reentering our garage under the palais des papes to take our car again,  let's have a quick visit to the "Petit Palais " at the north side of the square. This Petit Palais  is as all the rest. It had several restorations and renovations over the centuries. One of its famous guests was Cesare Borgia  in 1498 and Louis XIV in 1660 . Since 1976, it is said to be one of the most beautiful and best organize museums in France. The only problem is that the displayed works are only from the Avignon school , which most important was Simone Martini (1284-1344). The "coded " church-art that thee painters produced , asks the amateur that we are other requirements  than only aesthetic ones, let's say religious ones. For the non-initiated  of this complicated iconology, the "Mother and Child ' from Sandro Boticelli comes like a breath of fresh air, because we recognize the subject and style. But if you want my taste , the greatest tourist attraction in  this museum is the view from the windows at the first floor where we look upon the Rhone, see the Pont-Saint-Benezet, the tower of Philippe le Bel, the fort, the Charteuse in Villeneneuve and the mountains of Languedoc at the horizon. An excellent moment to say "adieu" to Avignon.

Bibliography:--Joseph Girard" Evocations du Vieil Avignon", ed. de Minuit, Paris 1958", --Michel de la Torre" Vaucluse -84"--