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Chateau Vincennes
Musee Art Afrique et Oceanie

 

Paris-12th arr-Chateau de Vincennes-Musée Art d'Afrique et Oceanie 

 

The CHATEAU DE VINCENNES has always been a favourite hunting castle of the French kings. It is said that Louis XI departed from this chateau on the Crusades to the Middle East where he died in Tunis. The chateau extended and became a genuine fortress like the English castles. But Philippe III (1274) and Philippe IV (1322) married here and Louis X (1316), Philippe V (1322) and Charles IV (1328) were born here. The dungeon of the castle had Henri de Navarre (the future Henri IV) as a guest and also the famous superintendent Fouquet was imprisoned here is 1662. Until Versailles was built in the 17th century, Vincennes was the residence of the French kings, especially because of the pure air of the environment. Other famous prisoners came to lodge here like Diderot, the marquis de Sade and Mirabeau. Much embattled during Napoleon's capitulation and during the German occupation, (30 hostages were murdered on August 20th, year 1944 and four days later the nazis blew up the old casemates and one of the pavilions was destroyed by fire). The renovations lasted for dozens of years , but finally the chateau was renovated to its former glory.   
Now over to the avenue Daumesnil for the African and Oceanian art amateurs!
 The musee des ARTS D'AFRIQUE ET D’OCEANIE . This museum, completely underestimated but anyway remarkable, is quite difficult for persons without patience and hating standing all the time. But it has a fascinating collection of African and Australasian art. Picasso used to come and wander the displays, seeking inspiration. 
The fact that it was called Musee des Colonies gave it a bad image after the liberation of the colonies. It became the scene of a political argument, when the museum was accuse of celebrating colonial oppression. But today, the displays are politically correct  and Nigerian death-masks, Algerian jewels and South Pacific fertility symbols. 
The Aquarium section is the easies to visit and the most spectacular and popular. You will see all types an sots of fishes (like rarely moving crocodiles). It is much favored by children, who gasp in awe at the baby sharks, turtles, cat-fish and the crocodile-pit.
A great renovation effort puts it now at international level with, very rare, a collection of primitive fish, unchanged since 300 million years! Wonders of nature ….
The collection of African Arts is to find on the first floor with admirable little statues, seated "Yoruba chief" , Ibo from Nigeria, magical statues from Congo (with nails), superb bronzes, a giant parade pipe from Cameroon, initiation masks, musical instruments, more wooden sculptures, statues, masks and ceremonial clothes from the 12th and 13th century and from Black African and beautifully executed jewels from North Africa.  Take some time to look over the details and the manner of African Art. Quite astonishing! It's a mixture of conventional style and abundant exoticism, flamboyant, poetic. This art of Central Africa testifies the brilliant civilization that existed . 
The Oceanian arts are sited around the immense festival hall decorated by frescos and are also a quite surprising discovery.  Masks of New Guinea, in rich materials, engraved bamboos, very nice ornaments and headdresses and a lot more….
Another hall is especially dedicated to Australia. I leave you the surprise to see it by yourself. ---
On the second floor the Arts of the Maghreb are displayed. Rich with geometrical motives, enhanced with vegetal elements, this art is remarkable by its arms collections, sumptuous jewels (16th -19th century), its Fes ceramics and embroidered costumes.

Bibliography

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 1997--Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997 --Paris 19eme siecle, l'immeuble et la rue, by F.Loyer, ed.Hazan, 1994- Le 12eme et ses secrets, J.Favier( ed.Natah 1996)—Chateaux de Paris, by J.de la Vence( ed.Minuit 1996)-Musees oublies, (office de Tourisme de Paris)