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You are eager to see the Grand Canal? Let’s start right away! Let’s buy a ticket on vaporetto no.1. From stop S.Zaccaria or San Marco, wherever you want. The ride will be slow and will stop at all piers. Buy the ticket direction Piazzale Roma and try to get a seta on the left side—and if you’re darn lucky, on the foreside of the ship.
“Canalezzo” that’s how the Venetians call the Canal Grande. Still the main artery of Venice and the only one to be named “Canal”, the others are called “rio”. 3.8 km long, 70 m wide and sometimes 5m deep, it has the shape of an upside down “S”. More than 100 “palazzi” look out on the canal. Some are magnificently restored, others look sad and shabby.
The wealthiest families had to have a palace on the Canal Grande on ancient times. And even more, the location made commerce a lot easier. The Palazzo was used as office and habitation. Venetians, clever businessmen understood very quickly the importance of outside aspects for their clientele. As the 100 palaces along the Canal were built over a period of 500 years, we can tell the history of the city through its architecture, integrating all styles and influences.
Most of the palaces were built in brick, the cheapest, lightest and easiest to transport at that time. Indeed, the pile work foundations needed light material. The ingeniosity of Italian architects created palaces that are still standing, for a few almost 700 years. Why not 700 years more? I’d like to answer that affirmatively but unfortunately the city is undermined by pollution and mass tourism. The foundations have been altered, luxury and magnificence has disappeared, only the facades remain.
The very few still living inside the palaces cannot assume the high costs, financial charges, housekeeping and maintaining cost. Looking at them we cannot imagine how cold and humid it can be inside. That’s why I proposed the vaporetto. But be aware that one time is not enough. You should repeat it, the promenade lasts 45 min during the day.
But the most magic, the instant that you will really plunge in Venice’s charming atmosphere is at night. A few palaces are still lit inside and shadows go and come, adding to the mysterious ambience.
I will start to describe and name all important palaces from the moment we leave the San Marco station, just after the customs house on your left where the church SAN MARIA DELLA SALUTE welcomes us.
But that’s for next essay.

Bibliography

Italian hours, by James Henry-Venice, a traveller’s companion, by John Julius Norwich-The Companion guide to Venice, by Hugh Honour-Venice and its lagoon, by Giulio Lorenzetti.