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Land of contrasts and
light, the tumbling slopes of the Lure mountainrange, only enamelled by the blue
colour of the gentians
as soon as the snow melts, smelling Provencal herbs like the sarriette, the
Durance stretching its vast bed of cobblestones, we drive over the D 13 towards
FORCALQUIER.
It’s one of the most appealing towns of the area, where locals happily welcome
visitors during the summer months but don’t allow the brief invasion to
disrupt the rhythm of their lives.
It has the advantage of a favourable location for itsagriculture and raising
herds on the plateau.
This gallo-roman village planted along the Via Domitium exists since the Middle
Ages. Rivals of the counts of Provence, the seigneurs de Forcalquier ruled
a very small state going from Sault, Gap and Embrun to the north, Manosque and
Pertuis to the south. During that time, Forcalcquier served as the capital of
the Haute Provence, making it a centre for culture and trade and a favourite
residence for the counts of Provence. Numerous architectural traces of this past
are still to be seen in the heart of the city. Making their own mint and
promulgate their own laws they finally have to integrate the kingdom
of France under Louis XI through forced marriages and other alliances. The city
loses its prestige But today, it's again active, wealthy and proud of its past.
For anecdotal history: it’s a few miles from here that took place one of the
most mysterious and never solved murder of English tourists in France’s modern
history: the “Dominici Affair”.
But the real flavour of the city can be tasted more sharply simply by taking an
aimless wander around the splendid alleyways of the old town since Forcalquier
boasts a clutch of reasonable “interesting” sights.
Small squares, vaulted streets, and dead–ends turn around the main square
where the austere “CHURCH NOTRE DAME” shows its central nave, choir,
transept and church tower dating fro the early. The “COUVENT DES
CORDELIERS “, a Franciscan convent of the 13th, was rebuilt in the 17th and
19th century and restored in the sixties and now part of a privileged private
housing, part visitable monument on the main square. Almost every narrow street
is lined with fine stone doorways and arches that are decorated with chiselled
plaques, scrolls and intricate relief.
We find the Jewish quarter, the rue des Cordeliers with its door mounting
towards the Monte des Hates Likes towards the “CITADELLE” perched on a rock,
giving you
the opportunity to view a superb panorama on Forcalquier the Alps, the Plateau
de Valensole, Sainte-Baume, Luberon, Ventoux...
Also on this rock is the actual location of the CHAPELLE-NOTRE-DAME DE PROVENCE
built in 1875. The descent towards the centre goes along the steep small streets
bordered by beautiful houses before arriving at the quarter Saint-Pierre and the
place Saint-Michel. This miniscule square, where the sunlight rebounds in
each window before irisating the water of the superb fountain (1512), standing
in the middle. Here is the weekly rendezvous for antique dealers on Sunday and
foire et primeurs every Monday morning. Along the rue de Pastère, a few charm
boutiques leading to the square with attractive and alluring terraces.
A few good addresses:
- Distillerie et domaine de Provence. Créateurs, outre de nombreux apéritifs
et digestifs aux plantes du pastis Henri Bardouin. Avenue Saint Promasse Tel :
04-92-75-15-41
- Moulin Masse (extraction de l’huile à l’ancienne) à Lurs Tel :
04-92-78-75-06
- Fromage de Banon à Limans, chez Joël Corbon Tel : 04-92-73-01-54
Office de Tourisme 8 place du Bourguet, BP 15 04301 Forcalquier Tel :
04-92-75-10-02 - Fax : 04-92-75-26-76
Bibliography
A guide to Provence, by
Michael Jacobs (Viking, London 1988), “Aspects of Provence, by Pope-Henessy
James (Penguin Travel 1988)–« Towns in Provence », by M.F.KFischer
(New-York-Vintage books 1983), « Regain » by Jean Giono,
« Hannibal’s footsteps » by Bernard Levin (Sceptre paperback
1987), « Les Alpes de Lumière »(Edisud, Aix en Provence),
The food and flavours of Haute Provence, by Georgeanne
(Brennan, Jeffrey Fisher )
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