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Haute Provence

 

Jack's Provence travels


Main page Haute Provence

Introduction and Manosque

Riez and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Gorges du Verdon

From Castellane to Saint-André-les-Alpes

Train de Pignes (1)

Train de Pignes (2) -Journey

Annot, authentic village

 

 


Haute Provence-Annot, authentic village



Entrevaux-Colmars

 

Col d'Allos-Barcelonnette

 

Lac de Serre-Ponçon-Sisteron

 

Montagne de la Lure

 

Forcalquier

 

Digne les Bains 

 

 

Warm Provencal and yet markedly Alpine, that’s how you could characterize the Vaire valley where ANNOT is located. I liked this village, fresh, offering numerous hiking possibilities in a wonderful mountainous setting. Long before the Romans conquered the area, Ligurians had settled here. A shaky sandstone rocky wall formed a natural defence until the day it collapsed on the village. A new settlement was built on top of which we see now the chapel Notre-Dame. Annot developed in the 15th and 16th century into a lively small town. One of the 5 Provence’s courts of justice housed here and the place was also considered by nobility as a mountain resort. A weekly market was created attracting a lot of people, like it still is today. A textile industry developed in the 18th century, together with tile and hat manufactories. Lavender distilleries were not forgotten.
Today, the old quarter of Annot is full of long gone memories: fortifications, old bridges, and small houses in narrow streets, wrought iron balconies and stone “lavoirs”. They are as classically Provencal as anything found further south. A sizeable main square, planted with plane trees, leads to a steep climb. Vaulted archways and a predominance of carved stones lintels line the tall houses on Grand Rue. The fortified church with Roman and Gothic elements dates from the 15th century and the bell tower is in Renaissance style.
The majesty of the Alps leaves its mark in the pure clarity of the air and the steely grey waters of the numerous streams that tumble through the town. In winter, Annot sleeps under thick coverings of snow. It is the oldest populated centre in the area but was only reachable by carriage as recently as 1830. Access was provided by the network of mule tracks that crisscrossed the mountainous landscape.
For years the town has attracted painters, since the area smells so heavenly in the summer with all the lavender and tile flowers. And there is no shortage of fine hotels and restaurants, tennis courts, solar swimming pool, equestrian centre, etc….
Just outside the town to the south is a vast cluster of massive rocks scattered far across the hillside, known as the “Grés d’Annot”, house-sized sandstone boulders that seem to have flung to earth from the cliff behind by an angry giant. Locals have built their homes next to them. Local legends, featuring troglodytes and primitive religions, surround them to this day.                        
Taking now the N 202 towards the spectacular hiking trails rendezvous of nearby altitude COULOMP VALLEY. You can follow the Coulomp river for a few miles and at the Pont de Geydan head straight to ENTREVAUX, or make some quick detour to the typical mountain village of MEAILLES or further north the ancient village of PEYRESQ, in ruins until 1955 when a group of Belgian students (yes!) decided to transform it into a tiny but thriving cultural centre.

Bibliography

A guide to Provence, by Michael Jacobs (Viking, London 1988), "Guide de la Provence mysterieuse" and "Provence Antique"by Jean-Paul Clebert (Ed.Sand, 1986 “Aspects of Provence, by Pope-Henessy James (Penguin Travel 1988), Guides du Routard, (1999) –« Towns in Provence », by M.F.KFischer (New-York-Vintage books 1983), « Regain » by Jean Giono, « Hannibal’s footsteps » by Bernard Levin (Sceptre paperback 1987), “Franse Middelandse Zeekust”, by Henk Zwijnenburg (Ed. ANWB)