Main page Haute Provence

Introduction and Manosque

Riez and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

Gorges du Verdon

From Castellane to Saint-André-les-Alpes

Train de Pignes (1)

Train de Pignes (2) -Journey

Annot, authentic village

Haute Provence-Riez and Moustiers Sainte Marie, the faience village  

Entrevaux-Colmars

Col d'Allos-Barcelonnette

Lac de Serre-Ponçon-Sisteron

Montagne de la Lure

Forcalquier

Digne les Bains 

Driving to Vinon on the D 952 we pass the enormous electricity plant of Cadarache, remembering us what a big part the Durance plays in the agricultural development of the Provence. We arrive soon in GREOUX-LES-BAINS, once a famous heath resort under the Romans. Continue along the same D 952 towards Riez, passing St.Martin des Bromes, Allemagne en Provence.
RIEZ, the oldest of cities in Haute-Provence, is now a sleepy Provencal provincial town, mainly visited by tourists for the remains of a Roman temple and a baptisterium from the 5th century. Of the temple only four granite pillars with marble capitals remain. The baptisterium looks like a cube but inside it is octagonal.
I was touched by the magnificent urban ensemble with its medieval houses skirting Renaissance edifices. The place de Quinconce and the Grand rue show a series of 16th and 18th century houses. Pushing some doors you might discover a gyps manufacture. Gyps is to Riez like faience to Moustiers....
Wealth level of population is not so brilliant, just a small industry of “santons”, leatherwear and ceramics making, the harvest of truffles and lavender. During the summer it is a very well visited healthcare centre.
On our way now to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the Alps get nearer and an astonishing backdrop of craggy cliffs provides a taste of the glories to come.
MOUSTIERS-SAINTE-MARIE, one of the prettiest sites of thé region, one of the most original, I would say. Hooked on the mountain, the village is perched on the edge of a ravine, cut in two by the Rioul river. The two sides seem to be held together by a massive iron wrought chain (where you can see a man-sized star suspended on the chain) that is around 220 meters long .It is said that it was donated by a crusader, the knight of Blacas, in the 13th century to thank the lord for his return to his country.
The environment is incredibly flourished and green with picturesque humpbacked bridges. The village has often been compared to a crib “grandeur nature”.
But, Moustiers, which was born in the 5th century on an initiative of Maximus, a disciple of the legendary Honoratus, the hermit who retired with his followers on the Iles de Lerins (see the chapter on the Cote d’Azur section) is world known for its “faience”. The narrow village streets are crammed to bursting with shops and studios producing the white glaze-decorative pottery, unfortunately everywhere the same cheap stuff. Sadly, many of the displayed items have fallen prey to the depressing combination of high prices and low quality. During the summer it is sometimes as crowded as the Mont Saint-Michel!
Established in the late 17th century by Antoine Clerissy, the recipe for the white glaze was said to have come from Faenza. The industry prospered for the following 200 years, counting Mme de Pompadour among its customers. More than 700 ovens, 30 ateliers and 400 people worked on it at that time. Changing fashions however, brought about its decline in the 19th century and the art was not revived until 1927.
Finally, the most rewarding is a visit to the MUSEE DE LA FAIENCE, in the Placette du Prieuré, where you can discover the secrets of manufacturing these ceramics. Open from April 1 to October 31, every day except Tuesday, 9.00-12.00 and 14.00-18.00, July and August 19.00.
Another must see is the EGLISE NOTRE-DAME-DE-BEAUVOIR, high perched above the village and only accessible through a steep path.

Bibliography

A guide to Provence, by Michael Jacobs (Viking, London 1988), "Guide de la Provence mysterieuse" and "Provence Antique"by Jean-Paul Clebert (Ed.Sand, 1986 “Aspects of Provence, by Pope-Henessy James (Penguin Travel 1988), Guides du Routard, (1999) –« Towns in Provence », by M.F.KFischer (New-York-Vintage books 1983), « Regain » by Jean Giono, « Hannibal’s footsteps » by Bernard Levin (Sceptre paperback 1987)