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Introduction

Eiffel tower, a genesis and anecdotes

Champ de Mars-Rue Cler-Hotel des Invalides

Eglise Saint Louis
Dome Invalides
Musee Rodin

Anecdotes of a prestigious neighborhood

Rue du Bac-Chapel of miraculous medal Museé Maillol

Musee d'Orsay
Introduction

Musee d'Orsay
Ground-level, impressionism before 1870

Musee d'Orsay
Upper level, Impressionists and neo-Impressionism

Musee d'Orsay: medium level and end of visit

Paris-7th arr-Eglise Saint Louis-Dome Invalides-Musee Rodin

The army church of SAINT-LOUIS (with 3 naves) impresses us principally by its stiff design. The only decoration you see are flags and banners, captured after fierce and bloody battles from enemies who didn’t ask France to invade them and would have preferred to be left in peace! The famous Turenne was buried here in a crypt in 1800. In 1840, Louis-Philippe decided to accomplish the vow of Napoleon that his body would rest “on the shores of the Seine, amidst this French he people he had loved so much”. When the “ashes” returned on September 15, they were stored provisorely during 20 years in the chapelle Saint-Jerome, at the left side of one of the naves of the church, the time needed to build a dignified and worthy imperial memorial for this great man for some, criminal butcher for others. (I refuse to debate about that, I’m only a travel writer;-))

Let’s proceed to the DOME DES INVALIDES. Under the gilded cupola of the dome you’ll find one of the most beautiful monuments built in Paris since the Renaissance period. Originally the church of Saint-Louis and the Dome formed one and only church! On Sundays the Royal family assisted under the cupola in a separated space, located in the gothic nave, the same mass as the soldiers and wounded of Saint-Louis. (Saint is just a surname, since it was one of the most cruel and merciless king France ever had, read Victor Hugo about him!).  

Dome des Invalides

When the ashes of Napoleon arrived in 1840, the Dome was rebuilt and transformed into a gigantic mausoleum. 

Coffin of Napoleon (6 coffins!)

If you feet are still able to drag you;-) take the rue de Tourville getting out of the Dome to the boulevard des Invalides, make a left and you are in the rue de Turenne. How idyllic it can be behind the high walls of the 200 old private villas in the 7th arrondissement, becomes evident when you visit the magnificent hotel de Biron better known as the RODIN MUSEUM. Rodin couldn't have dreamed of a better setting, having the opportunity to view the dome of the Invalides and the annexes of the hotel, which has also a magnificent garden. Notice for the anecdote that Rainer Maria Rilke lived here before Rodin, even serving him as secretary, and that after Rodin this hotel had Henri Matisse and Jean Cocteau as tenants.  

Musee Rodin seen from garden

This museum is exemplary the way it is presented. You can experience how a great Parisian hotel particulier looked under the Ancien Regime with its sculpture populated garden and interior decorations. The first interior courtyard shows already some of his masterpieces: “Les Bourgeois de Calais”, “La Porte de l’Enfer”, “Le Penseur” and “Balzac”. In the garden, restored in 1927, the “Appel aux Armes” and “Ugolin”. The famous “Baiser” is to see in the Grand Salon. Loiter around and admire a lot of other masterpieces you even never heard of.  Two halls are dedicated to the women Rodin loved: Camille Claudel, sister of the poet, the duchesse de Choiseul, lady Sackville-West and Mme. Elisseieff.  On the 1st floor you can admire the works Rodin bought from his friends: 3 superb Van Gogh, a Renoir, a Monet and even an Edvard Munch. Splendid.  

Penseur by Rodin

Even if you are not a Rodin admirer you will be undoubtedly conquered by the fairy tale, magnificent garden behind the museum. It radiates such a peace and charm!  The garden has been completely restructured. A sinuous path has been created, a poetic itinerary, on the theme "the sources".
A cafeteria is set up in the park of the museum. Open only from April 1 until Sep 30. Often empty and always rustic. Extra in the sunny days.

Bibliography: 

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas, 1985-1988, 20 volumes- Le piéton de Paris, by L.P. Fargue, ed.Gallimard 1997—Rive Gauche, une expérience unique, by Cl.Evrard, ed.Albin 1991-Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit 1985, --Guides du Routard 1998-99, ed.Hachette, --Napoleon, by Jacques Bainville, ed.Rencontres --Rodin, Teufel des Skulptur, by H.Waldteuscher.