Luberon Menerbes Oppede Robion Site Home - What's New? -Feedback - About Jack-  Travel/Art Links

Provence

 

Jack's Provence travels



Main Provence page

 

Main Luberon page

 

Les Gorges du Regalon

 

Merindol, Lourmarin,Cucuron

 

Bonnieux, Lacoste

 

Menerbes, Oppede, Robion

 

Cavaillon, starting point of another grand tour

 

Luberon-Menerbes-Oppède-Robion



Cabrières d'Avignon, Mur de la  Peste, Bories

 

Gordes and abbaye de Senanques

 

Gorges de Veroncle, Murs, grottoes de la Barigoule

 

Roussillon, ochre but a not so idyllic destiny

 

Apt, Saignon and Sivergues

 

Buoux, Pertuis, Ansouis, Cadenet,  abbey of Sylvacane

 

hotel recommendations

Let’s leave Lacoste along the D 109 direction MENERBES. This perched village is one of my favourites in this part of Provence, but I will not impose you the history of all the houses, porches and churches. It is much more fun to loiter through the streets and to enjoy panoramas, views over the deep lands from this giant rock looking like a steam ship! The best period is on a quiet spring day, when the sky is blue and when yellow and purplish red wallflowers spread their odour. Unknown and underestimated by the tourists because the village doesn't have nor a hotel or trendy restaurant.
MENERBES used to be an oppidum where the Protestants looked for a refuge during the bloody religion wars in 1577. On top of the village you can see a citadel that was built a few years after the protestant surrender. This dream chateau with hanging gardens and having a splendid view on the valley was bought in 1962 by John Rewald, an American Art historian and a specialist of Impressionism. Another celebrity of Menerbes is Dora Maar, female companion for a while of Pablo Picasso, who finally traded her for Françoise Gillot for whom he bought a house in the village.  And let’s not forget that it is in Menerbes that PETER MAYLE is supposed to have a house. I never tried to locate it. Besides, Menerbes is part of the "Association des plus beaux villages de France" ( association of the prettiest villages of France). A curiosity worth a visit is the "Musee du Tire-Bouchon" is sited (museum of the cork-screw). Thousand and one ways to open a bottle and a wine taste at the end of the visit.
Not very far, on the front side of the ocean steamer, occupied by a cemetery, is the very friendly CASTELLET, supposed from the 15th century with a real porch and front yard. It was very damaged during the religion wars but bought in that state by the painter Nicolas de Stael. His widow and children still live there.
Take now the D 188 westwards to OPPEDE and OPPEDE -LE-VIEUX. Narrow, winding roads, take care; but the views along the road are magnificent.

View of Oppede chateau

The chateau of Oppéde used to be the propriety of the Counts of Toulouse, who left the whole territory to the pope in 1274. But when much later, the anti-pope Pedro de Luna-alias Benedictus XIII fortifies the small village to resist the “legitimists”, using Catalan mercenaries, he could only stop them for 2 years and had to surrender but only after having destroyed the castle very thoroughly. The village lost its inhabitants with the years, fleeing the brutal reign of the local lords, of who a certain Jean was responsible for a lot of mass murders of Protestants in the Luberon. About 1910 all inhabitants left the uneasy rock village to establish in the lower Oppède-les-Poulivets. Nevertheless, Oppède le Vieux has an undeniable charm. Maybe because it is partially abandoned. There is nothing to see in or around the village: streets, paths or alleys are uncomfortable to walk on, like on a dirt road. Beside a cafe on the small central square of the village, one or two shops: nothing and zip.  Just a few paved streets leading through the few streets where people are living.
A special bike route leads from Oppede to ROBION. the most western village on the slopes of the Luberon. By car take the direction Cavaillon on the D2 and make a turn to Robion. The most interesting feature in this part is the “source de Bouillon”, very difficult to find and slightly comparable with the resurgence of the Vaucluse. In your quest you will stumble over numerous rocks, dolmens and holes, hidden under the shrubs. The source is finally behind a play grass field in the high rock wall. It’s here that every weekend the inhabitants of the surrounding villages come to picnic, flirt and much more. 
The source looks as the nose of a hippopotamus. . Only when water is needed a special squad climbs up the mountain and activate a sort of mechanism, making the water pour out of the nose of the hippopotamus, destined for the fields of the agricultures.
Next article we will start another itinerary in the Luberon and take off again from Cavaillon. But this time Cavaillon will be visited.

Bibliography

"Notes d'un voyage dans le Midi de la France" by Prosper Merimée (Ed.Adam Biro, Paris 1989), "Guide de la Provence mysterieuse" by Jean-Paul Clebert (Ed.Sand, 1986), "Guide du Routard Provence 1998 (Ed.Hachette), "Provence", by Jacques-Louis Delpal (ed.Natahn Paris 1987), "A guide to Provence", by Michael Jacobs (ed;Viking, London 1988), "Luberon, carnets d'un voyageur attentif", by Ollivier-Elliot Patrick,(ed. Edisud Aix-en-Provence 1991)