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Provence

 

Jack's Provence travels



Main Provence Page


Avignon


Arles


Aix-en-Provence


Luberon,Cavaillon


Saint-Remy,Glanum


Baux de Provence


Alpilles itinerary


Dentelles Montmirail-Gigondas-Sablet Seguret


Vaison la Romaine

 

 

Provence-Vaisons la Romaine



Mont Ventoux


Bedoin-Beaumes de Venise


Carpentras


Pernes-Fontaines


Isle-sur-Sorgue


Fontaine de Vaucluse


Tarascon


Pont du Gard


Montmajour
 abbey

Camargue

 

Recommended restaurants  Recommended hotels (construction)

VAISON LA ROMAINE thanks its reputation to a pastor named Joseph Sautel. He started in 1907 to dig after Roman remains and continued until his death in 1955. He had also read the book of Prosper Merimée “Notes d’un voyage dans le Midi”, who noted in his diary in 1834 that the city was obviously built on antique remains. Built by the Romans on a flat area of land on the east bank of the river Ouvèze, it's the bulk of Vaison today. Digs in the ancient part of the city have been done in such a way that you can begin to visualise something about life in Roman Gaul. In fact the excavations must be divided in two parts: Quartier du Puymin and quartier de la Villasse.
Named the French Pompei, these excavations are not all of very big historical importance, but there are many. The most impressive results of the diggings are to see along the COLLINE DU PUYMIN with the vast villa des Messii at the beginning. Here a theatre of 7,000 spectators was excavated. Please avoid this enormous complex for a detailed description by local guides during the summer, you could get trampled! Very frequented touristy site, Vaison is the third most visited place in the Vaucluse.
Walk down through town and cross the Roman bridge to see the medieval village perched on a rocky outcrop.

Bridge over Ouveze

Today, the city extends on the two banks of the Ouveze. This bridge over the Ouveze is for me one of the most important witnesses of the presence of the Romans in Provence. Despite all romantic ideas about old bridges, there are only five bridges left in Provence dating from Roman times and this one is one of them. The bridge you see now didn’t change since it was built. Only the stone rail that was added in the 19th century disappeared in the violent streams of the catastrophic flood of 1992. The bridge alone is worth a study, having only one arch of 17 meters opening.
After a steep climb to the old city “haute ville” we can explore the narrow streets where almost all houses have been restored with a lot of private care and money. We meet mostly neat Germans in white sport shorts and white sport Mercedes. A little too much Mont-Saint-Michel if you ask me, although the sea is far ;-)
The oldest house is from the 16th century. Superb Renaissance facades like almost all houses. See the fortified door surmounted by a belfry, the church, built in many styles and serving as a cathedral until the French revolution. The church is closed now because it is very dangerous to walk inside because of roof collapse danger! The same for the ruins of the fortified castle on top, built in the 12th century by the unlucky counts of Toulouse. It is a big disappointment for all those who started the steep climb to find out the castle is closed! Pass also the place du Vieux-Marche, rue des Fours, le quartier de la Juiverie...
Going down again to the old city life seems to have recovered after the dramatic floods. In the pedestrian streets the merchants complain again just like in old times about the shoplifters who get more and more daring when the tourist season approaches. Not only the well-filled wallets disappear from the tourist’s pockets but complete cars with all inside and outside disappear from the parkings.
Go and visit "L'Espace vins" in the house of tourism, place de l'Abbe-Sautet. Sale and tasting of wines and juices.

Feasts, festivals
------------------------
Soirees du Theatre Antique : from 12 to 25 July. Dance, theater, concerts.
Les choeurs laureats : end July-beginning August. In the cathedral. Biggest choir festival of Europe. "European Choral City" since 1993, Vaison la Romaine is a hymn to peace and beauty which welcomes musical meetings.
Journees gourmandes: beginning November. You can imagine what this is ;-). The arts of preparing the regional products and how to eat them. But or that you must buy first!! :-)

Bibliography

"La Provence devient francaise", by Roger Duchène (Fayard, Paris 1986) "Guide de la Provence mysterieuse" and "Provence Antique"by Jean-Paul Clebert (Ed.Sand, 1986),"The Roman remains of Southern France", by James Bromwich (Routledge London 1993), Prosper Merimée “Notes d’un voyage dans le Midi”,  « Old Provence », by Th.A.Cook (Rivingtons, London 1914), )« Dictionnaire de la France médievale », by Jean Favier (Fayard, Paris 1993), “La Provence Romane”, by Jean Maurice Rouquette (Zodiaque, Yonne 1974), Guide du Routard 1988 (ed.Hachette)