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Antwerp by foot, its insolent and secret treasures Introducing the walk Meir shopping, slowly loitering to Rubens house Rubens, his life and his house Bird market-Bourla theatre - more shopping Shopping streets to Groenplaats
Hoogstraat and Grote
Pieter Potstraat Museum Mayer van den Bergh-Maagdenhuis Strolling to the Carolus Borromeus church Rockoxhuis- Rubens tomb at St.Jacobskerk Cogels-Osylei area, unique in the world (1) Cogels Osy area, unique in the world (2)
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If there is a city in the world that grants you its intimacy without giving you away its secrets, a spot that offers himself without losing its mystery, a labyrinth that is its proper guide: it is….Antwerp. Unique in its contrasts, proud of its past glory, Antwerp is before all a metropolis dedicated to cosmopolitanism. Experience it instead of talking about, you can do it in a thousand different ways. You must feel the intelligence, harmony, taste also the contrasts, the ambiguities. Rubens, the genius of baroque art of northern Europe, is the most accomplished man of the Flemish art history. Antwerp set him at a pinnacle. All the time. It is impossible to discuss with a “sinjoor” (from the Spanish “senor”), Antwerp people are denominated, without hearing him evoke before half an hour, about the great moments of Antwerp painting. A city propitious to all ramblings, that leaves everybody free of any movement, to follow his inspiration wherever it leads him: Antwerp is an enchantment. Still today, the city radiates the prestige of its tradesmen, culture and elites. Winter or summer, Antwerp proposes different alluring itineraries for the cultural pedestrian.
Let’s start under the
great glass-cases of the main hall of Central Station, recently refurbished but
again in full dirt and transformation to house a brand new TGV station in 2003.
Forgive the actual inconvenience but it is a price to pay for progress: Paris
will be 1h40 min from Antwerp!! When
you leave the station at the Keyserlei exit, you will be struck by the animation
going on in the area. The Keyserlei is the horn of plenty for the locals,
attracting the “Tout-Anvers” in its hotels, restaurants, cafes, shops and
boutiques. Look at the clean façade of the station, on your right hand side
when you get out: a man’s hand, “printed” in the stone when the
refurbishing began, reminds us the color of the façade before the great
cleaning of the “rail cathedral”….what a difference!! But let the real walk start
now.
After the Keyserlei, cross the Frankrijklei, have a look at the Opera house on the Italielei,stop in the Leysstraat and turn around to have a last look at Central Station. At the corner of the Frankrijklei and Keyserlei you will see an ugly tower” Anwerp Tower” pure product of the 60’s when architecture was at his lowest level, not only in Antwerp but everywhere in the world. What a difference with the turreted houses of the Leysstraat, best example of Antwerp eclectism!! Look at Leysstraat no.7 and notice seven heads of city consellors sculpted in the façade. Look at all the other splendid facades, mainly on the right side (coming from Central Station). Shops paying a very high rent occupy all the ground levels. It’s the chicken with the golden eggs of the city of Antwerp (who by the way, needs it!). The axis Leysstraat-Meir is, after the rue Neuve in Brussels, the most frequented and prestigious commercial artery of Belgium. Even if the last years the great Dutch chains take over most of the surfaces (C&A, Creymborg , etc) Unfortunately, quality is not the main concern of these chains. You have to be selective. For quality and conviviality, I pointed already to the parallel Schuttershofstraat and neighbouring streets. Let’s continue our route along the Meir, but that will be for next article.There is so much to see! |