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Strolling to the Borromeus church

Rockoxhuis- Rubens tomb at St.Jacobskerk

Cogels-Osylei area, unique in the world (1)

Cogels Osy area, unique in the world (2)

Take now the Arenbergstraat, look at he facades of the beautiful houses and make a right into the Leopoldstraat. Next to the hospital, stands a botanical garden “Kruidtuin” which used to be a laboratory for medicine students, refining their botanical sciences in the 19th century. This botanical garden, created by a science man Henri van Heurck (1838-1909) was also the trigger to create the Antwerp Zoo. Around the small basin a lot of plants are proliferating, more than 2,000 species. Robust cactuses grow in glass cases at the end of the garden. A small alley leads to a charming Swiss chalet, restaurant and tea-room, like a fairy-tale “gingerbread house”, like us Antwerpenaars like to call it. Very agreeable but the food is not really to recommend (-in my taste;-)) Now you will have to jump to another quarter. It’s only a six minutes walk so I hope your sore feet will support it ;-). Walk up to the Blauwmoezelstraat just behind the cathedral, continue the Lijnwaadmarkt, stop a moment at the Torfbrug crossing and peek through the windows of the tavern “’t Elfde Gebod”. (the 11th commandment). 11th commandment?? What’s that? For us, Anversois, that’s “Thou shalt DRINK!” ;-). Ivy covers the opposite cathedral walls and this café, much frequented by many Dutch customers, is just typical Antwerp and packed with statues of saints. Have a good beer or coffee if your palate sticks already to you tongue. Let’s move on. A pretty statue of the Virgin decorates the corner of the Lijnwaadmarkt and Melkmarkt. Make a left into the Melkmarkt, enter the house “Den Cleynen en den Grooten Biecorf”, a house with a 19th century façade but created already in 1559. Today it houses several quality shops. . The “Vleminck Impasse” at the end of its courtyard is worth a visit. Continue Eiermarkt, take the Sudermanstraat to the left and then the second to the left, which is Korte Nieuwstraat. Next street to the right and you will arrive at one of Antwerp’s other jewels: the church CAROLUS BORROMEUS.
Imagine that before 1968, cars crossed this pretty square and even passed under thearcade. Peopled with artists, anarchists, and hippies in the sixties, the Jezuietenplaats attracts its charm from the numerous pedestrian streets all around. Now called Conscienceplaats it is one of the first Antwerp squares only reserved for pedestrians. Make a tour of the square: opposite the baroque church you’ll see the statue of Hendrik Conscience, author of the “Leeuw van Vlaanderen” (Lion of Flanders”. He entered Flemish history as the one “who teached his people to read…” Look now at the Church. The exuberant baroque façade, in a style adopted by the Jesuits, is said to be partly the work of P.P.Rubens. It is and will always be an absolute masterpiece of baroque religious architecture. A novelty was the dashing tower; a real eye-catcher despite its height is only 58 meters. Broken up by Doric and Ionic pillars since it was dedicated to the Italian archbishop Borromeo. Impressive are the numerous statues on the façade with a Madonna and child in the fronton. Place of honour is for course for Ignatius de Loyola, founder of the Jesuit order.
The interior is of an incredible wealth, even if it had to pay a heavy toll to a grand fire in 1718 (39 ceiling paintings of Rubens!).

The church has three naves, a choir in hemicycle and a rich furnishing patrimony. But the most beautiful part of the church is the chapel of Our Lady at the south side. We are surprised by the glowing colour game of the different marble sorts of the chapel. After the suppression of the Jesuit order by the pope in 1773 the Jesuits had to leave and the church became a Parrish church.
The Carolus Borromeus kerk is finally also a landmark of sacred music concerts. Every Sunday at 11.30, the “All Antwerp” assists at the “Artists Mass”, a mass sung for the Antwerp artistic gentry. The program is very alluring if you se how many “non Catholics”, Jews and Protestants come sometimes to listen to the concerts, your Jack included!

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ANTWERP-Strolling to the Carolus Borromeus church (you're in Venice!)