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The 16th
arrondissement is the Chelsea of the French capital, wealthy and serious. Very
wealthy even! It is formed by the so-called “beaux-quartiers”, where the
left winged political parties hardly obtain 5% at the elections.
In 1981, when the socialist François Mitterand was finally elected after a
quarter of a century in the opposition, the whole city, from the place de la
Bastille to the Champs-Elysees, was one and only horn blowing and celebrating
mob. But the 16th arrondissement kept quiet. It was dark and sad.
Like a mourning day. The inhabitants where shocked and off balance.
For amateurs of architecture, there is a lot to see (Guimard, Le Corbusier,
Mallet-Stevens) and the esplanade du Trocadero puts you eye in eye with the
Eiffel tower and the opposite shore of the Seine.
The 16th has its own shopping streets, like the avenue Victor Hugo
(metro Victor Hugo), rue de Passy, rue de l’Annonciation (metro la Muette) and
the rue d’Auteuil (metro Michel-Ange Auteuil). And there is the cutest small
theatre of Paris (Le Ranelagh) in the rue des Vignes where Gabriel Faure wrote
his “Requiem”. The neighbouring bois de Boulogne provides the necessary
oxygen and all possibilities for paying sex and love….
During the 19th century, even if the old aristocracy who lived here already for a long time looked with despise on
the “nouveaux riches”, they were very proud of their quarter. To have a
little idea of who lived here in past century go and visit the historical
cemetery of Passy where you will find the graves of Giraudoux, Manet, Faure,
Debussy, Fernandel, Carnot, Jean
Patou, Berthe Morisot, Talleyrand, Guerlain, Marnier( yes, the famous liquor!),
the Cognaq-Jay couple, founders of the Samaritaine and many others.
After all, this arrondissement had a certain image of nobility. Tourists visiting the 16th for the first time could find the
area a bit dull but strolling along the great properties, parcelled out and
divided in " villas" during the 19th century can be extraordinary. A" villa", groups in
fact a whole village, with beautiful alleys, green squares,
magnificent homes. Impressive facades, luxurious boutiques and trendy
restaurants, certainly in the northern part of the arrondissement, to “be seen
“ are the motto. People dres “BCBG” (Bon
Chic Bon Genre). President Giscard d’Estaing, the stock exchange kings
Kostolany and the champagne tycoon Paul François Vrancken lived here. Streets
are always deserted and distillate a cosy village atmosphere.
Bibliography
--Vie
et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle
Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard
199 --Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit
--Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier,
ed.Fayard 1997—Paris en quartiers : le Nord, by J.Lacouterie (ed.Hervas
185)—Le 16eme, Passy, Auteuil et ses anecdotes, by B.Beyern (own folders)
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