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La Defense

 

Paris-16th arr-La Defense-The Business area 

 

Immediately north of the Bois de Boulogne lies peaceful Neuilly, crossed by the avenue de Charles de Gaulle. This luxurious area used to be an oasis in a desert called LA DEFENSE, America on the Seine.  Once a desolate commuter land of office blocks, the government decided in the beginning fifties to build a modern business area west of Paris to redevelop commercial and economic activity and tear down ugly small plants, neglected houses and automobile junkyards. !! The project was given to EPAD (Etablissement public d'amenagement de la region de la Defense). The first phase of building was completed in the late 1960's as they proposed a huddle of office towers  not exceeding 100 metres above a pedestrian zone,  build around an esplanade situated in the historic axis Concorde -Champs- Elysees and covering the traffic roads.  The CNIT (Centre National des Industries et des Techniques) , was the first resident as a focus of La Defense but seems today a bit outdated.  It looked like a huge, turned upside down mussel of concrete, resting only on 3 points of support, in that time an architectural prowess. The RER was extended but suddenly recession hit and the planning corporation teetered on the brink of bankruptcy. At the recovery of the 80's La Defense took finally permanent root, towers soared to twice the height and the business world moved in. Since then there are about 28.000 houses, 2.500.000 square meters office surface and 300.000  square meters shopping surface being build and 70,000 parking places. 110,000 employees working at the 1300 companies, half of them being executives, with annual sales volume equivalent to France's national budget.  Twelve of the top 20 French companies have their offices at la Defense. A new generation of buildings were born, cheaper, architecturally more elaborated. In 1981 the shopping centre “Les Quatre Temps” was opened and made an end to the stressing silence in the area and streets, providing also a social focus for the complex. President Mitterand had already decided to integrate the Defense into his great architectural projects and had launched the big contest that would finish by building the "Grande Arche" (the great Arch).
In 1972 a huge international contest started. The project that impressed President Mitterand amongst the 424 proposals was the one attributed to a totally unknown Danish architect, Otto von Spreckelsen in 1981. It was the project showing the most strength and purity. It was built exactly in the historical axis: Palais du Louvre-Champs-Elysees-Arc de Triomphe. In the 110 meters high wings several ministeries were located, big companies, exhibition halls and the human rights organisation “Fondation des Droits de l’Homme”. Otto von Spreckelsen died two years before "his " arch was opened. 
Incontestably, 1989, with the inauguration of the Grande Arche and its immediate consecration thanks to the summit (July 14) of the 7 most industrialized countries, marked the official upraise of the Defense. Previously, the Defense was a place to see from afar, with a certain disdain. The spectacular Arche changed that, seducing public and politicians alike. 
Its economic power is impressive and from the 50 biggest world groups, 13 are represented.
When you walk today in the area you have the impression to have landed in a futuristic dream, where different materials and straight lines are melted into a splendid unity. Very busy during the day, it is extremely deserted at night.
But the Defense cleaned up its image and from an ugly ensemble without soul it became a tourist destination! Especially to visit the Grande Arche. But also the diversification of the cultural events mostly in the CNIT building (concerts, festivals, exhibitions, the new Imax Dome movie theatre, the Automobile museum, etc....), together with the increasing number of restaurants and hotels blew a joyful and agreeable atmosphere during the day in this area. Every year on June 21 there is a music festival where they try, like from Wagner to Stravinsky, to create a total art of work with concerts and a combination of fountains and light effects. It gained also a more human face with the 60 outdoor sculptures, works of great artists, a monumental fountain with its 70 waterspouts. Even plane trees, petanque players, squares......

Bibliography

--Vie et histoire des arrondissements de Paris, ed.Hervas (1985-1988--Nouvelle Histoire de Paris, ed.Hachette--Le Pieton de Paris, by L.P.Fargue, ed.Gallimard 199 --Dictionnaire historique des rues de Paris, by J.Hillairet, ed.Minuit --Guide du Routard 1998-1999 (Ed.Hachette)--Paris, 2000 d'histoire, by J.Favier, ed.Fayard 1997-Geschichten aus Paris : La Defense, ein umstrittenes project, By K.Lagerman (Munchner Verl.Bib.  1996)- La Defense a visage humain, par J.Lamy (Suresnes prss.1998)