Paris

From Cannes to Fréjus we have the choice between three roads. The quickest but of course the less interesting is to go stupidly with the autoroute A 8. A better solution is the N 7 following the trail of the Via Aurelia along the northern side of the Massif de l’Esterel. The third one is the coastal road along the Corniche de l’Esterel stretching out 41 km.
This N 98 was built in 1902 after the Touring Club de France asked for it. Before that time small villages like the oh so romantic Agay were squeezed the Esterel mountain range and the sea and only reachable from the water at the risk of your life. The N 98, meant as a touristy road grew out over the years to a two-lane road with overtaking prohibition. Certainly not the road I would advise any friend to take during high season and especially if they’re in a hurry! Traffic is worse than in Istanbul! And the beautiful views and aesthetics on the Esterel mountain range is hidden for a great part by dozens of villas and brand new glittering and flashing holiday villages and resorts.
But let’s assume it is off-season. We must admit that this road drives through a splendid piece of nature. Everywhere maritime pines grow and a rare and magnificent flower festival blooms especially in the springtime. The red-brown rocks descend with capes, cliffs, creeks, small bays, inlets and islands to the sea. And at our right the Esterel, maybe not very high peaked but scattered with deep ravines. Its slopes are covered with pines, scrub, myrtle, lavender and cork-oak.
The most beautiful part of the cornice is the one nearest to Cannes. It would be a perfect bicycle route but sometimes the road is too narrow.
First village is THEOULE-SUR-MER with a nice yacht port and a lot of sports and recreation possibilities. Local people call it also “Balcon sur l’Azur”. The castle you see in the old Theoule is in fact a rebuilt soap factory of the 18th century. And you must not be a wizard to notice that THE flower in Theoule is the mimosa.
Continue over 28 km to MIRAMAR, a luxurious resort, admire and set off to LE TRAYAS, a pleasant summer and winter residence for fortunate people. Here you are high over the sea. The landscape becomes more and more beautiful: mountain forests and deep, steep rocky slopes. Maritime pines grow at the most unexpected places.
The road crosses about four times the railway Fréjus-Cannes via stone bridges. CAP ROUX is in sight. Continue, continue the road winds more and more towards ANTHEOR, another resort especially appreciated by artists who look for a winter rest.
We are approaching Saint Raphael and Fréjus. AGAY, LE DRAMONT with a stone quarry of blue porphyry, CAP DU DRAMONT with an old semaphore tower and where you can see the small island Ile d’Or with an ancient watchtower.
Finally stop a moment on the beach of LE DRAMONT. Left of the road stands a war memorial remembering the landing of 20,000 American soldiers on 15th of August 1944. In ten hours they landed with heavy artillery equipment.

Bibliography:

John Pemble, "the Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the South", (Oxford University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982), Stephen Liégeard, “La Cote d’Azur” (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988 a reprint)

From Nice to Saint-Tropez (suite)

Cap d'Antibes

Juan les
Pins-Golfe-Juan-Vallauris

Cannes

Iles de Lerins

La Napoule and Henry Clews

Esterel cornice to Frejus

Frejus

Sainte Maxime to Port Grimaud

Old Grimaud and Cogolin

Saint-Tropez

From Saint Tropez to Cassis

Ramatuelle-Gassin-Croix Valmer-Cavalaire sur mer

Le Lavandou-Bormes les Mimosas