Paris

From Cap Ferrat there are now 3 roads leading to Monaco and Menton: the Petite Corniche (also called the corniche inférieure) running along the sea, the Moyenne Corniche, opened in 1927, part of the nationale 7 and running at the same height as Eze, and finally the Grande Corniche, thyme highest running, build in 1806 by order of Napoleon via the trace of the old Via Aurelia and offers splendid views over the sea.

Eze perched over the sea

But either road we take we will have to stop half way to Monaco to visit EZE, looking like an equilibrist trying to keep its balance on the steep mountain slopes of the mountain range. The one who lived here, should better have a good heart condition! It is said that Friedrich Nietzsche finished “Also Sprach Zarathoustra” here in 1883 and took his inspiration gasping for breath during its climbs on the mountain slopes to the eagle’s nest, called Eze. But the most impressive view you can have from Eze is from the Moyenne Corniche. The way it sticks between orange-lemon trees, cactuses and palm trees radiates a sort of mysterious aura. Listen to George Sand: “””The ruins of Eze, planted on a cone of rocks with a picturesque village in sugar-loaf, attract of course everybody's attention. It is the most beautiful, the most complete and the most composed view point on the moyenne Corniche”” (unquote)
Eze is the highest over the sea perched village (427 meters) of France. It’s only reachable on foot, via small alleys and narrow stair-streets. It’s the typical example of a fortified Provencal village, if it weren’t the yearly calamity that happens every summer: the afflux of buses and coaches crammed with tourists, every year more and more numerous...But no traffic!! The only traffic is pedestrian, even with a bicycle you would be uncomfortable. It is supposed that the Phoenicians lived already in Eze, was several times looted by the Mores, and that the 12th century was the beginning of the feudal lords of Eze, fortifying the city with a wall. During the middle ages Eze became a centre of piracy, and vaulted passages and storerooms were built to hide the booty. In 1543 the city was attacked by the Turks , looted and burned,. A new Eze grew slowly from its ruins , but the village was abandoned in 1320 and almost totally depopulated. The ruins of the castle stands now in the middle of the Le Jardin Exotique" (exotic garden) with nice collection of cacti and succulents. From terrace of the jardin you can admire some breathtaking panoramas on the Riviera. If the weather is exceptional you can even see Corsica!
Enter the village and loiter around: Steep lanes, tiny twisting alleys and crooked steps. The rue du Barri, climbs up steps, tunnels under houses and meanders over them. I didn't like the church, too kitsch.
But don't miss the 14th century White Penitents chapel on the place du Planet, since it has an unusual Catalan "Crucifixion" next to the main altar of 1258. Actually the Christ is smiling!
Just next to the village when you return to your car, you can see on your right the beginning of a path, called "le sentier Frederic Nietzsche” , a narrow path that leads to the coast t. Make a quick deduction; indeed! You don't really need a car to climb up to Eze village. You can walk! But you would need a little physical condition for that ;-). Count 1 hour to reach Eze-village. For the lazy or those who hate meditating during a walk, there are regular shuttles between Eze-plage and Eze-village from mid May to mid September. On the beach you will find NO sand, but rocks and pebbles. Park along the road. Naturism is permitted east of the rocks. For the amateurs !!

Bibliography:

John Pemble, "the Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the South", (Oxford University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982) Stephen Liegeard, "La Cote d'Azur (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988), Patrick Howarth, “When the Riviera was ours” (Century, London 1977), Guides du Routard 1998-1999 (ed. Hachette)

From Nice to Saint-Tropez (suite)

Cap d'Antibes

Juan les
Pins-Golfe-Juan-Vallauris

Cannes

Iles de Lerins

La Napoule and Henry Clews

Esterel cornice to Frejus

Frejus

Sainte Maxime to Port Grimaud

Old Grimaud and Cogolin

Saint-Tropez

From Saint Tropez to Cassis

Ramatuelle-Gassin-Croix Valmer-Cavalaire sur mer

Le Lavandou-Bormes les Mimosas