|
From Nice to Menton
Nice
From Nice to
Menton-an itinerary
Villefranche-sur
mer
Saint-Jean-Cap
Ferrat
Beaulieu-Villa
Kerylos
Eze
perched village
Monaco
La
Turbie
Roquebrune-Cap Saint-Martin
Menton
From Nice to
Saint-Tropez
Cagnes-sur-Mer
Saint Paul de Vence
Vence-Matisse
chapel-City
Tourettes-Gorges
du
Loup-Gourdon
Grasse
Cabris and Valbonne
(anecdotes!)
Biot
Antibes
|
When you explore the area
west of Grasse, you encounter a lot of places worth the trip. For those looking
for rest and quietness they can be used as overnight stay. I will describe you a
tour you can make starting from Grasse. It’s about 135 km long.
Start at the road D 4 along the plateau Napoleon leading to CABRIS. 500 meters
high, a sort of “balcony” with superb views until the golf de Napoule and
the Iles de Lerins. There is a lake named Saint-Cassien where the Canadairs who
fight the forest fires, started by stupid, uncaring tourists or criminals, take
their water to unload it in the fires.
Cabris is a harmonic assembling of roofs, going up to the discrete 17th
century church. It used to be a refuge for the writer André Gide, who found
some comfort with Maria van Rijsselberghe, his friend of always and whose daughter
he gave a child, non wanted and on the beach of Juan-les-Pins in the month of
July 1922. It was just at that period that Gide confessed in its “Corydon”
and “Si le grain meurt” that he had homosexual tendencies. What a scandal at
that epoch!!
Another colourful citizen of Cabris was Marie de Saint-Exupery, mother of
Antoine (writer of “Le Petit Prince”). Her house was so small that her son,
the mighty writer-pilot had to spend the night in “HOTEL DE L’HORIZON”.
Also Sartre and Albert Camus lodged in this hotel as well as the American
composer-conductor Leonard Bernstein who continued to write his works under the
pergola. It’s a must to lodge today at least one night at the Hotel de
l’Horizon and book a room where you can see the landscape until the
Mediterranean lying on your bed.
Also a diner or at least meal at LA CHEVRE D’OR is a MUST. The auberge was
opened shortly after last war and was soon the meeting point for tired
intellectuals like André Gide, Roger Martin du Gard, Jacques Rivière, Jules
Supervieille, Gallimard, Paul Claudel, Paul Valery, Menri Michaux, André
Malraux, Jean Paul Sartre, Albert Camus, Henri de Montherlant and Giono.
A new small restaurant that took the local ambience and atmosphere very well is
“Le Petit Prince”. You can look on the wide fields and chestnut trees from
its terrace.
Let’s get now to Antibes. But there is still quite a way to go. First return
to Grasse, take the D 2085 direction Villeneuve Loubet but at a certain moment
make right into the D 3 to Valbonne.
The sleepy place of VALBONNE took advantage of the neighbouring SOPHIA-ANTIPOLIS
and it’s university to get out of its economic slump. The endlessly
refurbished church was rebuilt with clear Cistercians style and reminds us of a
whole other period, the monk order of Chalais settling here in 1199. When those
monks came under the rule of the monks of the Island Saint-Honorat (one of the
Lerins islands) their goals changed. In the 16th and 17th
century, Valbonne was rebuilt in a bastide form . It is still a perfect
example of what a perfect bastide should be, with a market place in the middle
surrounded by arcades and overshadowed by the grey-green foliage of the
micocouliers. Thanks to Sophia Antipolis there is an English Bookshop in
Valbonne.
Continuing along the D 4 we can stop a moment at SOPHIA ANTIPOLIS, also named
the French “Silicon valley”. We can see immediately that on the 2500 hectares futuristic headquarters
are scattered of tech companies like Digital, Dow
Corning or Dow Chemical. Nothing really thrilling! Sophia Antipolis opened in
1974, idea of Pierre Laffitte, director of the prestigious Ecole de Mines in
Paris, to give scientists and technical people the opportunity to work on their
ideas on the highest level and gather them every month to discuss their work.
Next article: Biot and the musee Fernand Leger.
Bibliography:
John
Pemble, "the Mediterranean Passion, Victorians and Edwardians in the
South", (Oxford University Press 1988), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur.
Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and Hudson, London 1982) Stephen Liegeard,
"La Cote d'Azur (Ed.Serre, Nice 1988),Patrick
Howarth, “When the Riviera was ours” (Century, London 1977, Peter Graham,
“La France par les petites routes” (Ed.Arthaud 1988), “De Franse Silicon
valley”, by Ed. Vandevelde (ed.Standaard 1996)
|
From Nice to Saint-Tropez (suite)
Cap
d'Antibes
Juan les
Pins-Golfe-Juan-Vallauris
Cannes
Iles
de Lerins
La
Napoule and Henry Clews
Esterel
cornice to Frejus
Frejus
Sainte Maxime to Port Grimaud
Old Grimaud and Cogolin
Saint-Tropez
From Saint Tropez to Cassis
Ramatuelle-Gassin-Croix
Valmer-Cavalaire
sur mer
Le
Lavandou-Bormes les Mimosas
Hyères
Island of
Porquerolles
Island of Port Cros - Ile du
Levant
Toulon
From Toulon to
Sanary-sur-Mer
Bandol
and island of Bendor
La
Ciotat and route des Cretes
Cassis and the calanques
|