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Brittany has always played an apart role in the history of France. Both Basse-Bretagne as Haute –Bretagne might as well have been on another continent for centuries. Armorica, or “land by the sea” as the early Celts called it in the 6th century, had always been a world apart, an isolate granite peninsula whose fishermen fought hostile seas and whose farmers struggles to coax crops from the thin soil. Don’t forget that Breton culture was formed by centuries of all sorts of hardships, and hard, though life circumstances, as well on sea as on land. And what a bad and unfriendly neighbour to the kingdom of France! It’s only in 1532 that Brittany came under French rule, the chief enemy lay to the north: England. Until then and since then, we can say that the only visitors (except today of course) were invaders and confidence was far to seek. And it is a fact that the Bretons were often used by French authorities, royal or Republican, as “chair à canon” (cannon-fodder). Mostly young Breton boys were sent on the first and most advanced front lines, towards death, in bloody battles of WWI.
Like I read in a very old Fodor book of 1936: “It is absolutely futile to try to have a conversation with a Breton peasant who doesn’t want to have one. On the other hand, once he has confidence, he will prove a joyous companion glad to render service, and very hospitable”.
I’m a happy man, since almost every Breton I know is like that :-).
But to return to the Breton inheritance, be aware that Brittany shares with a lot of Celtic groups of which the closest are the Welsh. They have both a great degree of independency, though warm and welcoming, appearing reserved, even distrustful at first acquaintance. Bretons are hard working people, who you can trust and keep their parole.
Even if a lot has changed today, centuries of relative isolation served to preserve a distinctive way of life. Tales of myth and magic were passed from generation to generation, populating the misty landscape with magicians, dragons, fairies and devils.
Another characteristic of Bretons is that they are very religious, mostly Roman-Catholic. Faith has resisted to many a storm as the “enclos paroissiaux”, very numerous in Bretagne (especially in the Leon region). Religion didn’t become diluted as it did in much of Western Europe. Bretons have their army of saints, most of them democratically elected by the local population rather than authorised by the Pope in Rome.

Arrival of a pardon in Concarneau

A religious holiday only existing in Bretagne is the “pardon”, a yearly procession when the inhabitants of the city mix with pilgrims. Despite it became quite touristy, it remains a sincere expression of Breton piety. Between May and September you can bet that there is a “pardon “ somewhere in Bretagne, every day. That’s the occasion to put on the famous “coiffe” (with an e), long and high lace headdresses, reminding me the form of menhirs! All villagers parade with banners, candles and statues to ask forgiveness of their local saint. After the procession there is Breton music on the village’s main square.
My next post will be about Breton music, with its Celtic trademark and instruments and its inimitable sound.

Bibliography

The horse of Pride, by Per-Jakez Hélias (Yale University Press), The letters of Abelard and Heloise, by Pierre Abelard (Penguin classics), Mémoires d’Outre Tombe, by René Chateaubriand (in French), The Chouans, by Honoré de Balzac (Penguin classics)

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