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From Nice to Menton
Nice
From Nice to
Menton-an itinerary
Villefranche-sur
mer
Saint-Jean-Cap
Ferrat
Beaulieu-Villa
Kerylos
Eze
perched village
Monaco
La
Turbie
Roquebrune-Cap Saint-Martin
Menton
From Nice to
Saint-Tropez
Cagnes-sur-Mer
Saint Paul de Vence
Vence-Matisse
chapel-City
Tourettes-Gorges
du
Loup-Gourdon
Grasse
Cabris and Valbonne
(anecdotes!)
Biot
Antibes
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Most holidaymakers head
first for the island Ste.Marguerite where they roam around trying to find a
place to picnic in the peace and quite denied to them on the mainland. Thirteen
thousand trees grow on this island and generally the coast is more fit for mass
tourism. The mysterious “Man in the Iron Mask” was held prisoner
here in Fort Royal (built by Vauban) from 1687 to 1698. He was then deported to
the Bastille. If you want to know the historical truth, the man never wore an
iron mask but a silk one and the way he was held prisoner is beyond any human
comprehension, even for the 17th century. Nobody ever knew who was
hidden under that mask: a brother, or even a twin brother of Louis XIV who could
have been a forefather of the Buonapartes? Others speak of the Italian count
Matteoli who knew too much about the stately
affairs.
Anyway, the tourists looking for quietness are more likely to find it on
St.Honorat (400 m wide
and mainly covered by parasol pines, eucalyptus trees and cypresses.
For several centuries St.Honorat was the centre of religious life for the whole
southern Europe, and was so powerful that it owned much of the land along the
coast, including Cannes. Imagine that one about 3,700 monks lived on the island
and the monastery delivered quite a few bishops, like the best known in Ireland
and America: St.Patrick!! But the constant raids from pirates as well as papal
corruption made its decline inevitable. The museum and church that the
Cistercian monks keep open for visitors is mainly a private domain where they
grow lavender, grapes and oranges and are pleased to sell their own honey and Lérina
liquor to the visitors.
The most beautiful spot on the island is in the eastern point, called the
“chapelle de laTrinité”, hidden between the trees. All over the island
there used to be seven of those chapels. Most disappeared, others were
“restored” in a very indelicate way. The only authentic one, finally, is
this “chapelle de le Trinité”. Under the altar of the Trinité
a small cellar with the skeleton and a skull was found in 1850, supposed to be
the remains of Saint-Ferreol. Its is deceiving that the chapel is closed
nowadays, hiding its interior.
Let’s end by the visit of the fortress-monastery. This edifice, the best seen
from the boat on the island, built in 1073 is fortified on three sides, the
fourth skirting the sea. Vauban, master in those kind of defensive constructions
was flabbergasted: “This is a real masterwork, nothing should be changed
here!” Inside, a first floor dating 14th century and an upper floor
from where you can look at the Esterel range, the Cannes bay with
the snowy Alps in the background.
From the modern monastery you can only visit the church, dating 19th
century.
And for those who like walking on a roundtrip trail, there is one around the
island.
Bibliography
“L’Art
Cistercien en France” by le Père Anselme Dimier (Zodiaque, Yonne, 1982),
« Notes d’un voyage dans le misi de la France », by Prosper Mérimée
(Ed.Adam Biro, Paris 1989), "Guide de la Provence mysterieuse" by Jean-Paul Clebert (Ed.Sand,
1986), Mary Blume, "Cote d'Azur. Inventing the French Riviera" (Thames and
Hudson, London 1982),
"When the riviera was ours" by Howarth Patrick (Century
Hutchinson)
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From Nice to Saint-Tropez (suite)
Cap
d'Antibes
Juan les
Pins-Golfe-Juan-Vallauris
Cannes
Iles
de Lerins
La
Napoule and Henry Clews
Esterel
cornice to Frejus
Frejus
Sainte Maxime to Port Grimaud
Old Grimaud and Cogolin
Saint-Tropez
From Saint Tropez to Cassis
Ramatuelle-Gassin-Croix
Valmer-Cavalaire
sur mer
Le
Lavandou-Bormes les Mimosas
Hyères
Island of
Porquerolles
Island of Port Cros - Ile du
Levant
Toulon
From Toulon to
Sanary-sur-Mer
Bandol
and island of Bendor
La
Ciotat and route des Cretes
Cassis and the calanques
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