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The restaurant scene in Cancale is largely overshadowed by one of France's greatest and most talented cuisiniers. Olivier Roellinger is a class apart. Not only in cuisine but he is a man of an exceptional quality. When others lost their soul, giving in to high paid contracts and formed gangs to be sure of their own glory, Olivier dreamt of happiness. But this man didn't walk on path of roses to get there where he is now, he had dramas enough in his life.
It all started in 1979, when he lived in a "malouinière" in the centre of Cancale, finishing his chemistry studies. One evening, he felt like making a last walk on the ramparts of Saint Malo.
He choose a bad evening, was attacked, for no reason at all, by a group of skinheads, who broke his two legs, cut his face open, and sent him in a wheelchair.
It took some time to get over it, but he lost his envy for studies and decided to give up his career. But what will he do now? He has to make a decision. And why not transform the old house of Bricourt in a restaurant, since he liked to cook and with taste, from when he was a child?
In lightning speed he passes all exams to be a cook, works in a restaurant of the Seine valley, works for a time with Gerard Vié in Versailles, with Guy Savoy in Paris.
Now he feels strong and jumps into action. He opens his place, named "Restaurant de Bricourt", is discovered by Gault/Millau in 1983, who gives him two "toques" right away! In 1990, he gets to the absolute top: three toques!
Maybe because of his chemistry studies, he has the incomparable feeling, the mysterious chemistry of the products, cooking times, the secret combinations of mixing different savours. He never goes blind, always knows what he is doing. But be reassured, it is not a chemistry laboratory you will enter but a two centuries old house, with tremendous spontaneous and intuitive cuisine.
I believe he is the most intelligent and passionate cook of sea products, sending to hell all saboteurs, whose criminal preparations kill for a second time what the sea has to offer us from her most beautiful creatures. Even more: it's an expression of modern refusal for all what is fake and tricked. A total symbiosis with its region and a passion for his products.
It's not cheap but worth every cent. In the summer unfortunately, tourists know the way already, lovers, families or the inevitable Japanese, but let it not bother you.
Melanges like these extraordinary plats de huitres chaudes aux lanières d'encornet on which he pours a subtle jus à la poudre de mangue! A saint-pierre "retour des Indes" infused in cocoa milk (one of his most popular plats), with citronella, flower petals, and about 14 spices. This lobster etuvé dans un bouillon d'étrilles, à l'huile de roucou, perfumed à la canelle, bois d'Inde and tamarin. Or that admirable sole rotie aux graines exotiques et aux petits poireaux au bord de mer, nappéé by an incredible juice which is a sole quintessence.
One and only meal at Roellinger is a frustration! Why not continue the experience? A journey rich in emotions, hushed by rare savours of so many plats, lie the petoncles aux pommes de terre naines, aux bébés morilles et aux vinaigre de cidre, chair d'araignée de mer aux saveurs du jardin et emulsion de fenouillette sauvage, raie de..... I could go on for hours but I figure you are drooling over your PC by now :-).
Wines are of course in accordance to all this quality.
For this great art, be prepared to pay between 55-76 €.
Olivier Roellinger in the Maison de Bricourt, 1 rue Duguesclin tel 0299896476 fax 0299898847. Closed on Wednesday, Tuesday and from mid-December to
mid-March.
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